Pictures: Goodbye India

Hello Dubai

Dubai after rain!

Watery sun

Looking through the letters we are bringing from Grail for children in Pencarnisiog school, we found one for Dave and thought you might like to read it - double click to enlarge.

HOME TIME
Having done all we set out to do, and not being able to visit the Delhi Brotherhood, we found ourselves with a bit of time to spare in Delhi. Sounds great, but Delhi is not a nice place and, to be honest, we are shattered, so we decided to bring our flights forward a few days. This whole trip has been a wonderful experience, but has certainly not been hassle free or relaxing! We have tried to keep the blog interestng and on the whole upbeat, but we have met so many people in so many places and tried to take in so much information that it will take some time to organise it all. We have learned so much - mostly what we set out to learn, but quite a bit else as well.
Coming home seemed to be the simple option. How wrong can you be? We phoned Emirates and arranged to change the flights. They had no through flights, so it meant a night in Dubai, so we asked them to book the stopover and transfers and gave them a card number. The guy said they closed at 6pm, being a public holiday, but at 5.40 the phone went dead. We were left wondering if our booking was made......
We went to the airport early, and after much discussion and waiting were told there was a booking. Relief! Hotel? Transfers? Nobody knew or cared! In the end we emailed the hotel, adding that they should check if Emirates had already booked. That meant a taxi from the airport too. No booking had been made, so at least we had a nice room even if it did cost a lot more than an Emirates deal. Have emailed them, but no response!
Extra surprise - Dubai is wet, very! They have had floods and the subways have been accessed by entrepreneurs with a supermarket trolley wheeling people through! Still warm, late 20's C, but very wet. We have carted lightweight waterproofs all round India, complaining that we needn't have bothered, but today they came in handy! A watery sun came out later, but not the usual. Feel sorry for anyone here for a beach holiday!
The Kindness of Strangers....
Tennessee Williams' phrase has often come to mind, and we certainly appreciate why Kate Adie used it to title her autobiography. Lasting memories will certainly include many kindnesses, ranging from Christy and Johnson at Grail, the young seminarian in Cochin and the Buddhists from Bury St. Edmunds, the bookshop owner and the young man from Thomas Cook in Calicut, the people at the temple in Mangalore, the guy on the night train who reorganised the sleeping arrangements, the aging bikers from Lancashire (long grey locks and bandanas) in Mysore, the staff of the little hotel in Goa, Mrs Dekeling in Darjeeling, and several clergy and church people everywhere we've been, particularly the two Deans.
We have seen lots of wonderful work and projects and have a much better understanding of the massive needs and unlikely solutions to so many desperate situations, and have realised what a wonderful thing it is to bring hope and self-respect to people at the bottom of the heap.
As we remember and reflect I think we will go on learning for a very long time!
　
　
　
　

Delhi Brotherhood

DELHI BROTHERHOOD
We were very disappointed not to be able to visit the Brotherhood, due to bad timing really, it being a holiday time and Fr. Weatherall being in hospital. However, we did get lots of information and were amazed at the scope of their work.
They began when a group of priests from Cambridge (the Cambridge Brotherhood), under the inspiration of Bishop Westcott, went out to India to start a higher education programme in1887. What started as a small endeavour has grown into a large social organsation. All the Brothers take a vow to remain single and to devote their whole lives to serving the poor and needy. The part that we have contact with in Llanfaelog is the Street and Working Children Project. Ian, a pilot in our congregation, asked if we could find a contact to which he could take children's clothes etc when he flies to India, and could be sure they would actually go to children and not onto the black market. The Delhi diocese supplied details of the Brotherhood, and Ian has visited them regularly for a few years now. I have been in email contact, and was really looking forward to visiting! Ah well! Anyway, we now know a lot more about them and their work, which is tremendous and have obtained pictures.
As well as the street children project run by Brother Daniel Monodeep, the Brotherhood runs a Day Centre for the elderly, a Boys' Home, a Nght Shelter, an HIV/AIDS centre, an old people's home and a Womens' Empowerment Programme - and I don't think even that is a comprehensive list!
The Brotherhood campaigns actively for the end of child labour, and for the integration of street and working children into normal society, so that they can eventually support themselves by qualifications or a trade. This is pretty much the ethos of the Grail Trust in the south where we began our journey. and of the Delhi Cathedral project to support children of leprosy stricken families. When a young person is enabled to support themselves, then whole famlies can be transformed. Seeing the size of India and the vast numbers of people makes you realise just how big the problems are and what a huge task the government has to try to raise standards. We heard on the news that more people in India own mobile phones than have assess to a proper toilet! That gives some perspective!
We and Ian hope that, with the support of Bishop and Diocese, Virgin Airlines might take up the children's project as one of their official charities. Hopefully the other contacts we have made on our journey can be used in similar ways. Even though we can't solve all of India's social problems, at least we can help to improve a few lives!
　
　
　

　

DELHI TWO

Pictures: Presentation of Prayer Book

Grand vestry (get building, Roy!)

Congregation at tea in cathedral garden

Cart of dyes for Holi festival

Tuc-tuc race - well, not really, just normal traffic

Had a really good day today. Early start to English service in the Cathedral - taxi actually found it first time as we now know it is near the Mughal Gardens. At 8.25am the 8.30 service looked thinly attended, but as with all the others the congregation grew in the first 10 minutes of so, and there was actually a congregation of around 300. The service was a mix of old and new, and was choral. The congregation seemed keener on the newer hymns than A & M! The second hymn was 'Great is Thy Faithfulness' and I thought of Joan Pritchard and the little point of a finger as she always said, 'All I have needed...' The sermon was very good indeed, and delivered with humour and reality.

Tea was served in the garden afterwards - again by the men - and we chatted with people, even one lady who, when told we were from Bangor Diocese, said 'Oh, in Wales!' First one, I think, that we've met.

We learned such a lot about CNI andDelhi Diocese. We spent ages there, including a long chat with the Senior Presbyter (Dean) who had marvellous English and was very interested in the way we do things. He was really taken by the idea of a bilingual prayer book and thought he would raise the idea! Must send him one to see. He also presented me with a CNI prayer book, which delighted me. One of things I love in their book is the absolution, which says ..'God who forgives those who forgive each other.....' As we've said before, travel broadens the liturgy! The Bishop was also at the service, but dashed off afterwards as he has just become a new grandfather.

The Cathedral has three languages, English, Hindi and Tamil, all with separate services - at least, for now! There are a lot of Tamils in Delhi, and the diocese supports a leper children's home in Tamil Nadu, having a grand annual fete which raises large amounts for the home. I've brought back details! As with all our other contacts, there was so much more than can go in a blog post.

Monday is a holiday called Holi. This is a Hindu festival - a bit new-moon-fertility-rite thing, slightly frowned on by some but popular everywhere. The main ritual is the chucking of coloured dyes on everyone. These dyes, in powder form, are sold from carts in the streets. It all promises to be very messy! Took tuc-tuc back to hotel- given up being scared in traffic now - and are still trying to contact the Delhi Brotherhood and children's project. Apparently Fr Ian Weatherall is in hospital, which explains contact problems, but we have had other numbers from the Dean. Here's hoping!

Pictures: Lotus Temple (Bahai)

Revival!

Cathedral Church of the Redemption

Wonderful sweet peas in Cathedral garden

Boy and big monkey employed to scare off the pest monkeys!

DELHI

Made it to Delhi - a little ahead of schedule, but no bad thing as it would have been worse to miss the plane home. Found the hotel and spirits fell a bit. The area was none too salubrious, and the hotel lobby didn't inspire confidence. Our room is on 4th floor up a rattly lift and is such a surprise. A really lovely room with balcony (never mind the outlook!) and bathroom with tub - heaven! The staff are a bit persistent about trips etc, no doubt arranged at double the going rate, but are quite courteous so long as you don't mind waiting for things. Anything you remind them of, the answer is, 'Just coming..' The guy who looks after the rooms on this top floor takes it all very personally ('You are my guests, I look after') and wants you to check and pronounce yourself satisfied when he has cleaned the room. I confess I always said men couldn't make beds, but watching this guy, I have to admit some can!!

Delhi is just as filthy and monstrous as we remember from a fleeting visit with a tour group. It has some lovely parts, but they seem so much at odds with what else you see. Lots of people sleep in the street and many more do very menial jobs for a pittance just to keep body and soul together. The traffic is terrifying, the smog is pretty heavy and the rubbish in the streets is horrendous. Add the touts and scams to all this and Delhi isn't a place to linger. We did a quick dash round some of the sights (yes, the driver tried to take us to his uncle/brother/relative's shops!) and enjoyed the Red Fort and Humayan's Tomb. Visited the Bahai Lotus Temple, loved the gardens and the building is quite something, but found it somehow smug and self-satisfied. Shame!

Tried to contact Delhi Brotherhood to visit. Ian flies in stuff for street children to them and I am in email contact with them, so we wanted to meet them, but were surprised to get no reply to emails and telephone calls. So we bravely went looking. After much misdirection we found the cathedral, and there was a revival going on in the schoolroom next door. Explains where everyone is. Lots of people, much singing and dancing and clapping (see picture) and we were made very welcome. There was the usual massive enthusiasm and people of varying ethnic origins and languages joined in together without hesitation. The cathedral is in the posh part of Delhi, but doesn't seem to suffer from ex-pat syndrome (you know, photo of the Queen behind the altar..) The people we met were friendly, down- to- earth and everyone seemed to be involved in the worship and maintenance in some way. One unusual problem they have is there are too many monkeys in the grounds and they wreck the garden, so a boy with a big monkey is employed daily to keep the monkeys off the flowers etc! (see picture) Arranged to be at Cathedral tomorrow to meet people and learn more.

Pictures:

N ot washing - prayer flags!

The tree at the end of the universe - 500ft drop after the tree!

Main road to Darjeeling!

Tibetan knitter

Tea garden, but not as we know it...
DARJEELING - is it our cup of tea?
Quite a day! Taxi to airport, good timing, pleasant check-in, nice airport. Plane came in, but no-one seemed in any hurry. Began to worry as our connecting flight in Delhi had only a half hour gap. Boarded half an hour late, so mentioned to the flight attendant that we should have a connecting flight. She took the onward tickets to 'show pilot' then gve them back. Resigned to missing plane.... Otherwise Jet Airlines pretty impressive, plenty of legroom and lovely staff. Arrived in Delhi just after our plane was due to take off. But ... ground staff waiting, sent us posh bus of our own, and said would try to get our luggage, but if not would send it on tomorrow. Settle for that - obviously only one flight a day! And then two baggage handlers appeared with our cases, slung them on the bus and off we went straight to the waiting aircraft. Two more baggage handlers met the bus, took the cases to load, we boarded and the plane took off! Amazing! There was a quick stop in a place we'd never heard of, and during that short stop a flight attendant came and asked if we would like food. Yes!! He brought us boxes with lovely chicken sandwiches, chocolate brownies and drinks for the princely sum of £2.50 each, and it was delicious. Pretty good service eh? And the plane made up the time! l Very quick baggage collection, taxi arranged by hotel waiting for us for the 100k journey to Darjeeling.
An interesting journey! Mad traffic, nothing new there. Then we began to climb! Hairpin bends, massively potholed narrow road, sheer drops, no barrier, narrow train track weaving across road, much oncoming traffic, often large and very insistent. Stopped at about 5000 feet at cafe with terrific hot chocolate, and massive drop right below! Onwards and upwards. The most terrifying ride ever, took about 4 hours, climbed to about 7000 feet, and here we are in Darjeeling. We stopped worryng part way up - just hoped to survive!
Darjeeling isn't beautiful, though it might have been once. It is crowded and grubby, but looks as if it might be interesting to explore tomorrow. However, the hotel actually starts on the 4th floor, up steep marble steps. Our room is at the top, another two steep flights, no lift. Also the air is thinner here! Felt very sorry for the lads who carried the luggage! Actually felt pretty sorry for myself too! The room is very nice, timbered walls, carpets, little wetroom bathroom, even a little TV. But those stairs!!! When I phoned the man said he could find us a room tonight and we could choose a better one tonorrow. This is fine - but I might never come out! He sent tea up, and said that as the restaurant is on the ground floor (6 flights down!) we coud order room service if we want. We want! Now waiting... There is a little lounge with smoky log fire one flight down, but can't be bothered just now! However, all should be well as Dave has ordered dinner and extra pillows and had a chat with Tibetan owner and we will move to a suite (!?)in their other property tomorrow. Of course it might not be wonderful but it sounds fine, just a bit further from the town, but having seen the town, that ain't a problem. So, we are not downhearted - and we have had our first glimpse of Kanchenjunga! Rather hazy today, but hopefully all will appear. Another adventure!
Few minutes later - they just brought us hot water bottles!
DAY TWO
Well, it hasn't got any better! Hard beds, lots of noise outside all night, little sleep. Nice breakfast though. We had a wander round this morning as we waited to move, and in the sun Darjeeling didn't look quite so bad. The people at the first hotel were really lovely, but the stairs were horrendous and once a day was more than enough. So, towards midday we went off in a taxi to 'Hawk's Nest Luxury Suites'. Mmmm! We do have a bedroom and a sitting room plus wetroom bathroom, but there are absolutely no amenities, and it is up a horrendous track. Only consolation is that, unlike stairs, you can get a taxi up a track! The TV is rubbish, there is no internet, and it is bigger than the last place but otherwise less, not more, deluxe. Also it is freezing cold! Went back to explore town this afternoon, and guess we've seen it now. OK for a quick visit, but very scruffy and dirty with all but the square full of horrendous roaring Landrovers in convoy. Final insult, it is cloudy and the Himalayas are not visible - Kanchenjunga should be right in front of us, but....
We asked for a fire tonight (at a cost) and are still waiting. Problem is how to arrange to escape, as mobiles only work on text and there is no STD here, so booking flights and hotels is difficult until we can get to the town tomorrow. Wish I'd braved those stairs now!! Probably all seems much worse because we are so tired after everything! Darjeeling was not the best idea we ever had!
Fire and dinner eventually came, so things a bit brighter, but still very cold. Gave up and went to bed early........
DAY THREE
Decided not to linger, so had jeep (and driver) to look around then take us down to Siliguri to catch a flight to Delhi tomorrow. All was redeemed when we had a Tibetan driver who took us to see tHe Japanese temple and the Peace Pagoda, complete with chanting monks who rise and open the temple at 4am. Wonderful spot! We had coffee on the roof terrace of a scruffy but nice little cafe and the mist had lifted a bit, so we got glimpses of the Kanchenjunga massif, but obviously we aren't going to see the full monty. Sad. Our lovely driver then then took us up a horrendous narrow little concrete track to a Tibetan Refugee Centre. Here we saw people earning a living by simple and lovely handicrafts. Old ladies were spinning, weaving, carpet making and knitting, there was carpentry and craft work and there was a small area (compared to the big plantations) of tea growing. There was also a photo gallery with the Tibetan story - made us quite angry with China! I didn't know China had a quarter of its missiles on Tibetan soil, as well as other simiar hardware, and large troop numbers. No wonder they don't want to let Tibet go! Our driver was Tibetan and, at the age of three, was carried across by his father, travelling by night and lyng low by day, through
Bhutan and eventually into West Bengal and Darjeeling.
After a long visit, many photographs and a fair bit of shopping, we left and set off back down the hairpin road to Siliguri. Actually, it seemed OK, maybe we are getting used to hanging on and hoping for the best - the driver obviously expected to get home tonight, so.....
Found a real hotel in Siliguri for the night - seems to have the features hotels normally have - so we settled in to a late lunch of fish and chips and beer. Heaven! So, all ended well. Off to Delhi tomorrow.

Riding up to Amber

Observatory

Lunch - 'Golden Peacock'

Palace of the Winds

Amber Fort

JAIPUR

The Amber Fort at Jaipur is one of my favourite places in the world, and I did hope Jaipur would not disappoint this time! Although Jaipur itself is pretty scruffy and rather smelly, and a bit pestiferous to tourists, it still has so much that is wonderful. And no, it didn't disappoint.

We took a day off and had a car and driver and went to see all we could. Terrific. Started with the Amber Palace Fort, as you have to go in the morning if you want to ride up on an elephant. The lake below the fort, where we saw elephants bathing last time, is competely dry and the rain isn't due for a couple of months. The magnificent floating gardens are surrounded by mud and look very sad. The fort is such an atmospheric place. Its situation is amazing, with views to hgh peaks, down to the valley, across to a floating palace (which does have water in the lake - I think the Maharajah demands it!), across to a wall resembling the Great Wall of China and to a higher defence fort above. The buildings of the palace/fort are so beautiful, and the hall of mirrors is amazing. A place to spend time.

We then went to Fort Jaighar, the high defence fort, less glamorous, but an amazing situation. This has the largest wheeled gun in the world, built for 4 elephants to manoever, and only fired once in test, range 22 miles - more of a deterrent than anything, we thought.

Down to the City Palace, one of the homes of the Maharajah. Surrounded by rubbish and squalor, goats. cows and pigs in amongst the horrendous traffic, the palace is quite beautiful and quite a bit is open to tourists, including a very elegant little cafe where we had lunch. We ordered beer, a rare treat, with our lunch, choosing 'Golden Peacock' over the rather fizzy 'Kingfisher, and it was plonked on the table very quickly as the waiter said, 'Just a minute get glasses but is last bottle!' Tasted wonderful! There was a snake charmer in the street as we left - gave him a wide berth! - and also bought a peacock feather fan.

Found a little gem of a temple and gardens with fountains, absolute magic, little known. Then visited the Rajmandir cinema. Had to buy tickets though film long started, but went in to see the amazing, totally unspoiled, huge1920's art deco foyer. Wow! Cold drinks at alcove table. Never seen anything like this place.

Tried to find supermarket for bits and pieces, but there doesn't seem to be any such thing, just hundreds of tiny shops and apart from tourist shops it's hard to work out what to get where and most are none too salubrious.

Should have mentioned the hotel. Run by two brothers who are Buddhist, it is a masterpiece of hand painting, all walls and ceilings intricately decorated. (see small sample in picture) There is a rooftop restaurant, also all painted, and it is very clean and nice. It is, however, rather agressively vegetarian - no eggs even - and definitely no alcohol. There is a little hotel round the corner with more variety and even Kingfisher beer, but the restaurant is up four flights of very steep, narrow marble stairs, very scary, especially when a waiter dashes past with a sizzling dish! From our roof we have seen some fine fireworks displays from wedding venues.

We have worried so much about reaching Delhi in time for the flight home that we have got a bit ahead of ourselves. We had hoped, though not expected, to make it to Darjeeling, so we will fly up there to the high Himalayas tomorrow. Exciting! Just had to buy some cold weather shoes!

Organist & Choir Mistress

ALL SAINTS

Soon after arival in Jaipur we found an Anglican church about 10 mnutes' walk away. The notice board proudly proclaimed it to be 'Ex -Church of England'! Made contact with Presbyter J.C. Joseph, and learned a lot about the Church of North India. Like CSI it is a fairly recent amalgamation, and is very sensitive to the fact that there are different traditions combined, so a great effort is made to include all and to alienate none. Despite the notice board, they are very proud to be Anglican. Lay people play a large part in worship and in social life - for example, during Lent there is Bible Study every day, varying times, led by people in their own homes, known as 'Cottage Study'. There is lots of lay participation in worship, and lay members with a Bishop's licence may also preach. Will try to go to Communion on Sunday - a treat as it's English - and meet more people.

At first sight of the church you could be in the UK. Built in 1873, it is a stone church with spire and all the 'usual trimmings'. It has a garden, which is lovely and which is quite a sight seen from the main porch through the church and out of the facing door - open, of course to let some air in! The only real giveaway that you are not in the UK is a series of fans from the ceiling. I t is most beautifully kept and in excellent order - unlike most things in Jaipur! The church also runs a large school, and is preparing to build a mother and toddler unit on the land next door. Again, lots of social involvement.

Went to the service 9am Sunday. As elsewhere people trickled in and out, but there was a big congregation and great enthusiasm. The prayer book is a modern version of 1662 - even the Lord's Prayer is modern - and the hymns are A & M. We began with 'Oh Jesus I have Promised ' which I found very nostalgic and really missed Llanfaelog! The sermon for Lent 1 was excellent - a couple of good ideas to hang on to! - and he preached from James, which many of you know is a favourite of mine. Lovely choir too.

After the service there was tea (made by the men) in the courtyard. Presbyter Joseph said we must stay for tea 'It's the Anglican tradition, you know!' Everyone was friendly and they were obviously happy to be together, which was lovely. Very nostalgic!