Riding up to Amber
Observatory
Lunch - 'Golden Peacock'
Palace of the Winds
Amber FortJAIPUR
The Amber Fort at Jaipur is one of my favourite places in the world, and I did hope Jaipur would not disappoint this time! Although Jaipur itself is pretty scruffy and rather smelly, and a bit pestiferous to tourists, it still has so much that is wonderful. And no, it didn't disappoint.
We took a day off and had a car and driver and went to see all we could. Terrific. Started with the Amber Palace Fort, as you have to go in the morning if you want to ride up on an elephant. The lake below the fort, where we saw elephants bathing last time, is competely dry and the rain isn't due for a couple of months. The magnificent floating gardens are surrounded by mud and look very sad. The fort is such an atmospheric place. Its situation is amazing, with views to hgh peaks, down to the valley, across to a floating palace (which does have water in the lake - I think the Maharajah demands it!), across to a wall resembling the Great Wall of China and to a higher defence fort above. The buildings of the palace/fort are so beautiful, and the hall of mirrors is amazing. A place to spend time.
We then went to Fort Jaighar, the high defence fort, less glamorous, but an amazing situation. This has the largest wheeled gun in the world, built for 4 elephants to manoever, and only fired once in test, range 22 miles - more of a deterrent than anything, we thought.
Down to the City Palace, one of the homes of the Maharajah. Surrounded by rubbish and squalor, goats. cows and pigs in amongst the horrendous traffic, the palace is quite beautiful and quite a bit is open to tourists, including a very elegant little cafe where we had lunch. We ordered beer, a rare treat, with our lunch, choosing 'Golden Peacock' over the rather fizzy 'Kingfisher, and it was plonked on the table very quickly as the waiter said, 'Just a minute get glasses but is last bottle!' Tasted wonderful! There was a snake charmer in the street as we left - gave him a wide berth! - and also bought a peacock feather fan.
Found a little gem of a temple and gardens with fountains, absolute magic, little known. Then visited the Rajmandir cinema. Had to buy tickets though film long started, but went in to see the amazing, totally unspoiled, huge1920's art deco foyer. Wow! Cold drinks at alcove table. Never seen anything like this place.
Tried to find supermarket for bits and pieces, but there doesn't seem to be any such thing, just hundreds of tiny shops and apart from tourist shops it's hard to work out what to get where and most are none too salubrious.
Should have mentioned the hotel. Run by two brothers who are Buddhist, it is a masterpiece of hand painting, all walls and ceilings intricately decorated. (see small sample in picture) There is a rooftop restaurant, also all painted, and it is very clean and nice. It is, however, rather agressively vegetarian - no eggs even - and definitely no alcohol. There is a little hotel round the corner with more variety and even Kingfisher beer, but the restaurant is up four flights of very steep, narrow marble stairs, very scary, especially when a waiter dashes past with a sizzling dish! From our roof we have seen some fine fireworks displays from wedding venues.
We have worried so much about reaching Delhi in time for the flight home that we have got a bit ahead of ourselves. We had hoped, though not expected, to make it to Darjeeling, so we will fly up there to the high Himalayas tomorrow. Exciting! Just had to buy some cold weather shoes!
The Amber Fort at Jaipur is one of my favourite places in the world, and I did hope Jaipur would not disappoint this time! Although Jaipur itself is pretty scruffy and rather smelly, and a bit pestiferous to tourists, it still has so much that is wonderful. And no, it didn't disappoint.
We took a day off and had a car and driver and went to see all we could. Terrific. Started with the Amber Palace Fort, as you have to go in the morning if you want to ride up on an elephant. The lake below the fort, where we saw elephants bathing last time, is competely dry and the rain isn't due for a couple of months. The magnificent floating gardens are surrounded by mud and look very sad. The fort is such an atmospheric place. Its situation is amazing, with views to hgh peaks, down to the valley, across to a floating palace (which does have water in the lake - I think the Maharajah demands it!), across to a wall resembling the Great Wall of China and to a higher defence fort above. The buildings of the palace/fort are so beautiful, and the hall of mirrors is amazing. A place to spend time.
We then went to Fort Jaighar, the high defence fort, less glamorous, but an amazing situation. This has the largest wheeled gun in the world, built for 4 elephants to manoever, and only fired once in test, range 22 miles - more of a deterrent than anything, we thought.
Down to the City Palace, one of the homes of the Maharajah. Surrounded by rubbish and squalor, goats. cows and pigs in amongst the horrendous traffic, the palace is quite beautiful and quite a bit is open to tourists, including a very elegant little cafe where we had lunch. We ordered beer, a rare treat, with our lunch, choosing 'Golden Peacock' over the rather fizzy 'Kingfisher, and it was plonked on the table very quickly as the waiter said, 'Just a minute get glasses but is last bottle!' Tasted wonderful! There was a snake charmer in the street as we left - gave him a wide berth! - and also bought a peacock feather fan.
Found a little gem of a temple and gardens with fountains, absolute magic, little known. Then visited the Rajmandir cinema. Had to buy tickets though film long started, but went in to see the amazing, totally unspoiled, huge1920's art deco foyer. Wow! Cold drinks at alcove table. Never seen anything like this place.
Tried to find supermarket for bits and pieces, but there doesn't seem to be any such thing, just hundreds of tiny shops and apart from tourist shops it's hard to work out what to get where and most are none too salubrious.
Should have mentioned the hotel. Run by two brothers who are Buddhist, it is a masterpiece of hand painting, all walls and ceilings intricately decorated. (see small sample in picture) There is a rooftop restaurant, also all painted, and it is very clean and nice. It is, however, rather agressively vegetarian - no eggs even - and definitely no alcohol. There is a little hotel round the corner with more variety and even Kingfisher beer, but the restaurant is up four flights of very steep, narrow marble stairs, very scary, especially when a waiter dashes past with a sizzling dish! From our roof we have seen some fine fireworks displays from wedding venues.
We have worried so much about reaching Delhi in time for the flight home that we have got a bit ahead of ourselves. We had hoped, though not expected, to make it to Darjeeling, so we will fly up there to the high Himalayas tomorrow. Exciting! Just had to buy some cold weather shoes!
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