'TRAVEL BROADENS THE LITURGY..'

CHURCH IN COCHIN -St. Maelog's Day

Found an 8am English Communion in St. Francis Church. Thought the congregation bit small for this area, but they trickled in during the first ten minutes or so of the service, including choir members who straggled in. They were actually a very good choir when they finally all arrived and the congregation was pretty large.

The service was lovely, really quite moving, not least due to the earnest enthusiasm. It was a version of 1662, and the hymns were good old revivalist ones. I admit to a smile when the offertory hymn was, 'I surrender all to Jesus' - though it was obvious there was some sacrificial giving going on, and, in fairness, the theme of the day's readings was the cost of disciplleship.

A few lovely bits struck me particularly and gave rise to quote of the week from Dave, 'Travel broadens the liturgy!'

Particularly nice was the way of sharing the peace with a large congregation and another queuing to get in for the next service. The priest said the sentence for the peace, then solemnly shared peace with two servers, or maybe wardens, who then shared the peace with those on the ends of the rows, who shared it along the rows. It was lovely, warm and dignified.

No swine flu chalice problems here. Although the church - cathedral really -is very poor and plain, it is swept and clean, but the chalice and a little ladle are gold. The priest dips the ladle and pours it, with no contact whatsoever, into each mouth. I think I was being a bit mimsy with the mouth-opening bit, so he gently but very firmly put a napkinned hand under my chin and pushed my head back! Got to admit, it worked and no risk of contamination!

The intercessions were the standard 1662, but there were separate prayers for the sick and needy of the parish, and after these the choir sang a short, lovely little thing about 'We offer them to God.' Liked that!

As seems to be the pattern here, men and women go for communion together. If you visit this church during the week, you are asked to remove your shoes at the door, and no-one is allowed in the sanctuary. On Sunday I realised people were keeping shoes on, but then we removed them to go up for communion, which seemed right. Still appreciating the purchase of easy on and off shoes!

The sermon was, as usual, declaimed loudly through many speakers, but was actually very good. There were a few Europeans present, not many, but a lot seemed to appear looking through the windows towards the end. Turns out that Sunday is cruise ship day in Cochin, so coachloads came, but no-one had organised to get them here in time for the service, which they obviously regretted

Since coming back from church we have seen coachload after coachload of Cunard groups soming through, many stopping at the hotel opposite for lunch. Made us think how often we have been part of such a group - and what a lot they're missing!

Onwards.....

This will probably be the last bulletin from Cochin as we move on tomorrow. Had planned to go to Ooty, but there are railway problems there. Then thought of Goa, but flights are outrageously expensive and trains booked, so we have decided to go a bit further north to Calicut. We tried to book in at the hotel where Somerset Maugham stayed, but sadly full. However, we booked the next best thing and, believe it or not, it has actual baths! Heaven- well hope so, unless it's cold water!

Ought to say, we did discover hot water here yesterday after accidentally leaving it running about 10 minutes! What have we been missing?

Also pushed the boat out last night and went for a meal at The Old Courtyard. Posh, te? The actual courtyard is a bit tatty, in need of a coat or two of paint, but it had fairy lights and table lamps and live Carnatic music. The food was amazing! Simple, but wow! Example: tiger prawns in tempura (and you ain't never seen them this big!) with a light soy dip, chicken supreme with saffron, and tiny baby veg (Isauce to die for!) then pineapple flambe. Even proper coffee and good black tea! And all for less than £12 each! Mind you, that is a fabulous amount to so many here. After the simple fare of the south that was some meal!

All the buses here have names, mostly in the various religious groups. Watching from our balcony this morning, we came to the conclusion that Infant Jesus doesn't work Sundays! Previously we have seen 'Infant Jesus', 'Baby Jesus', 'Christ', 'Christ the King' and 'Mary Martha'.

We have enjoyed Cochin and have marvellous memories - and photos!

COCHIN CONVERSATIONS.

Cochin is more 'advanced' in its church ways than the deep south, but the idea of women priests hasn't percolated yet. However, women feature in the lay ministry programmes, and the Women's Fellowship, integrated into the MU about 6/7 years ago (the one that took membership over 3 million) flourishes here and is involved in children's programmes and various organisational and lay ministerial offices. In church men and women sit together here, very progressive, and women read and serve. Projects, both Anglican and Roman Catholic, focus a great deal on childlren, as it is accepted that educating a child to a qualification or a trade is the most effective way of raising a whole family from the absolute poverty.

Most, if not all, of the activities of the Anglican church are organised by lay people, and social activities mainly by women. The parish picnic, for example, is organised by Mrs Dora and leaves at 5.30AM - cost 200 rupees. (About £3) This is an all-day event to somewhere 'quite far.' Harvest Festival here will be on 14th February and the guest for the day will be the Bishop. There are well-attended day retreats with men, sometimes lay, as principal leaders, but women take part in leading.

Most interesting was a conversation with some lovely Buddhists from Bury St. Edmunds (yes, really!) who were visiting the village where they buy supplies for their Fairtrade shop. Their ambition is to buy a woodland and teach people to manage it ecologically and encourage the locals to do genuine local carving and crafts at a fair price which our Buddhists would then import and sell at reasonable prices themselves. They were a bit disillusioned with the Fairtrade Foundation, as many village communities and cooperatives can't afford to join and the criteria are too easy for the big groups to access. We talked on the shore by the Chinese nets over a juice, and realised how long we had been there when we found it had gone quite dark on us. Altogether a super time. I loved his simple remark, 'I try to reflect what I want to receive from others.' What more can we say?!

Cochin

COCHIN Photos: Chinese nets, notice. Bedroom!

Finally found Ballard Bungalow. This is a small hotel owned by the diocese - how's that for an idea to pay our way? It is a somewhat restored Dutch or Portugese mansion, restored by the diocese, with, I think, 5 bedroooms, all large and airy. I t must have been a stunning house in its heyday - wouldn't mind one of my own to do up - what fun! The staff are lovely, most helpful. Our room, though a bit worn, like everything in India, is real 'departed glory' stuff, which I love. Picture hopefully attached. Cochin is lovely - like everywhere else you have to overlook the rubbish etc. There is a great system to clear the streets - brush most of the litter and leaves into little piles in the gutter, and set fire to them. Early evening smells of smoke! Sadly, still no hot water. However, excellent and cheap laundry system, so all our clothes are now clean - such luxury. Laundry goes off in an auto (tuc-tuc) in a morning and comes back in the evening.

We were directed to the museum and Bishop's house, and found we were with the Roman Catholics! No problem, all very friendly and we learned about their charities and projects and how they go about things. They have a very practical approach that makes sure charity goes where needed, no middle men. Long conversation with young man who had left the seminary as he wanted to do hands on charity.

Found the Anglicans - definitely the poor relations - but no-one who spoke English. They found it very odd that Dave was not the priest! However, contact made to be followed up, and we have seen some of their famous lay ministry in action. As before, basically the priest covers a wide area, with Catechists doing the day-to-day services and lay people doing everything else. Seems to work very well and to be totally accepted. Congregations are sizeable and enthusiastic.

Fort Cochin is a drive or ferry ride away from the main city of Ernakulum, which is desperately busy and the traffic is crazy. Fort Cochin is much gentler, and there are wonderful and famous Chinese Nets along the shore for fishing. Seafood is serious stuff here, and there are a couple of restaurants advertising 'You buy, we cook.'

The heat is tremendous here, well in the 30s and we gave in and slobbed around for a day or so, before taking a breath and investigating further

FIRST TRAIN JOURNEY

Breakfast on time again - same method. !

All packed and ready for next adventure. Early to station just in case, plus want to take picture which will hopefully accompany this blog.

Trains are incredibly long, and our compartment is 1a, so is right at far end. Kanykumari is the end of the line, so it comes in and then a new engine is added at what was the back, and out it goes again. We reckon we walked the first mile of our 350 mile trip just to reach the compartment. It wasn't exactly posh, but clean and swept and a/c, so quite comfortable. We were on our own for the first 250 or so miles, which was nice. A man came round with an urn of coffee, which was nice, and we were equipped with fruit, so we settled in to watch the countryside go by. Wonderful views of the magnificent Western Ghats. Wonderful scenery, rice field, coconut groves, pineapple groves (are pineapples in groves?) and villages of all kinds. Thought the journey would seem long but it didn't.

New experience: lunch came, rice and sauces with veg and fish. No 'implements' so we had to go native and eat with our fingers.- on a moving train too! Actually the trains are very steady, no rattling about like our puny diesels. Dave had already done a fair bit of eating with fingers; fitting in, he called it. Note to our kids, I will retrain him before he influences your children! After a hesitant start, managed very well, no mess at all!

Tea came round in the afternoon, smelt a bit odd, but tried it and found it to be cinnamon tea, hot and delicious.

The guard, very smart in navy blazer and white trousers, stomped up and down throughout the journey to check we were all where we should be. There is a notice stuck on the outside of the compartment with names of the passengers and, yes, ages! Ah well! Stations aren't always clearly signed, so as 5.30pm approached we began to ge a bit anxious, as we had luggage to drag off. The train was running 20 minutes late, so we spent an anxious little while trying to anticipate when to make a move. In the end it was fine, Ernakulum, the station for Cochin, was huge and terrifyingly busy, but at least it was obvious we were there At end of train, so another mile trek back to station, we were somewhere in far countryside. Dark by now. Found taxi, crammed luggage in, confidently said, Ballard 'Bungalow please.' Blank. Repeat. 'Is in Fort Cochin?' Yes. Off we shot into traffic which had to be seen to be believed: rush hour of course. Nightmare ride for hour or so, getting worried as we had said be there about 6pm. Please be a room! Tried to phone, but all lines busy.

Finally got to Fort Cochin, where is hotel? Drove round a bit and miraculously spotted it - driver delighted. Turned in off scruffy street, and it looked lovely and welcoming. Young man on desk looked puzzled. 'You booked?' Oh oh! After a little wait he came back smiling. Paid off taxi - all of 450 rupees, about £9, for all that time. Oh, Rough Guide, why didn't say Fort Cochin is so far from the station? Anyway, we know now, and it looks OK, so we'll see what tomorrow brings.....

END OF THE WORLD?

Pictures: Sunrise from our balcony, Kanyakumari
Ghandi Memorial

Well, not the end of the world, but the end of India. We are staying in Kanukamari, the very end point of India, where the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean meet. It's a big place of Hindu pilgrimage, and as it's weekend and also Indian Independence Day, the place is heavingly busy.

The hotel is 'interesting'!! We waited an hour and a half for breakfast yesterday. Dave's scrambled eggs came - we were desperate for something other than dal and chappatis - then an hour later, my omelette. When we asked about the toast, he said something like, 'Finished, is none.' We thought we would try room service later, and ordered something simple an hour before end of lunch service. An hour and five minutes later a little man came and said, 'Is finished!' We did manage dinner in the courtyard in the evening, with only about an hour's wait. Encouraged, I wrote our breakfast order and gave it to reception. 'Oh, yes he said, and gave me the b it of paper back, but I insisted he took it and told him of the previous problem. Not sure he understood, but thanked him a lot.

To our amazement, at ten to eight (ordered for eight) breakfast turned up! Cold omelettes, granted, toast that seemed to have had a quick blowtorch over its outside surface, already sparcely spread with jam, granted, but it was breakfast and thqt unimaginable luxury, on time!

We were up - well, in dressing gowns - soon after six as our balcony overlooks 'Sunrise Point' where veryone gathers to watch the sun come up, and today was clearer than of late. About 6am they begin singing, mixture of Christian, Hindu and no doubt others, and cheered the arrival of the sun when it burst through. Beautiful!

This point is where the tsunami hit and there are still signs of wreckage among the boats in the fishing village (below our window). The rebuild of the church here is almost finished and the fish market has been rebuilt and is very posh, especially in view of its surroundings. 1000 people died here, most of them tourists for elsewhere in India.

We have booked train tickets to Cochin tomorrow, an seven hour trip, so that should be an adventure. Booking is a thing in itself. Go to station (will get picture tomorrow, it's like a mauve wedding cake!) and queue to be told which queue. Then you ask about the train and they ask what number? Don't know. Where to? Cochin. Fill a form in - includes sex and age, home address, colour of underwear, you know the kind of thing. Then he tells you the train nujmber. Fill in number, date, time and class. Sorry, no Class 1 A/C Monday. Couldn't face it all again, so settled for Class 2 A/C. People in next room said it's OK. And it is only a short journey... From here you can do the longest train journey in India, 86 hours!

One thing we can't work out is why hotels, even homes, don't have solar water heating. Answer seems to be that they don't need hot water here!? Cold showers and hair washing have become the norm. Admittedly, apart from cooking pots and clothes, not much seems to get washed. A place of immense contrasts, incredible squalor and incredible beauty, amazing indifference and amazing hospitality. Lots to learn, we're sure!

Water!!!!!

WATER!!!!!!

Woke up to find no water. Then saw parts of water pump being carried across the compound on sacking. Oh dear! Johnson said it had broken 'again' and was being sent on the school bus to Valioor for repair. All day we had no water - imagine trying to wash all of you in alcohol gel! - and we hoped it would be repaired in the same day. It was, and came back on the school bus, but still awaiting the electrician to install it. We feel incredibly dirty in all this heat!

Had chat with Johnson, and obviously this is a recurring problem, so we said that the parish would buy them a new one, a proper submersible pump with proper control unit. Much rejoicing! So, apart from treats for the kids and the trip for the staff, that is what we are doing with the parish money. I hope everyone is happy with that - it will make a huge difference. Oh, and we gave a donation to the church too, as it serves the Grail and the village.

We took an auto (short for auto-rickshaw) into Valioor to get the money, but couldn't draw it all at once. The bank mamager came to see us and said we could collect it in two goes, and invited us into his office for tea and chat. (The tea was actually good!) We realised that we were invited to give him kudos - not something that often happens often!

We also wanted to buy envelopes to leave for staff and some pocket money for kids. How to find them????? Serendipity here. We met the pastor, who found a stationers, not like any you've ev er seen before, and we bought our envelopes. He then showed us the market which we would have overlooked, it just looked like a back alley with falling down huts, but it was really interesting, and the fruit and veg were amazineg. We wished we could cook ourselves. We gave the pastor a lift in our auto back to his bike by the Chinnamalpuram turning off the main road. Forgot to say before, coming back from Valioor, the scariest bit is turning right at the gap in the central reservation and doing about 50 yards down the worng side of the dual carriageway to the village road!

Water on next morning, but for how long? Hope new pump comes soon!

Picture: Cooking Ladies in their finery

Had intended to take the staff out for a meal in the evenng as we did when I was here before, but John decided we would go during the day and go out for lunch. Set off after the kids went to school, 9 to 9.30 he said. This morning Johnson said we would set off at 10am, and in the end it was almost 11, but we never knew why; just sat on the verandah and waited. John's children were coming, the little girl came to tell us before 9, but in the end John himself didn't come, just wife, kids, Johnson and four cooking ladies. The ladies were sensational in their best saris. A small bus, known as a van round here, bounced us merrily to Kanyakamari. It was a good trip with great views from the high vehicle. It has been hazy whilst we've been here with hardly any views of the Western Ghats, but nearer the coast it was clearer and their huge craggy outlines came into view - magnificent.

We got out of the bus near the market and the sea, and first had to visit the 'point' of India and paddle where the three seas meet - Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean. Felt lovely and warm - there were people swimming but Christy said not good idea, dirty! By the time we'd walked back the few yards to the market our trouser hems were dry again - it's very hot.

Birthday girls

The ladies wished to do 'purchasing' said Johnson, so off we went round the very hot and crowded market. We bought a load of hair ornaments for the girls, and some super-bouncy balls for the younger boys, but drew a blank for the big boys. Perhaps money for them?

Felt a bit sorry for Johnson and the cooking ladies, as the 'purchasing' was very much centred around the kids, and the little girl wanted everything she saw and got it, with Johnson being despatched back to get things for her while everyone else waited. How different from the kids in the hostel. We've never seen them whinge or complain!

Went for lunch in the 'multi-cuisine' restaurant of the Mahindi Hotel, and were delighted that the ladies ordered happily and thoroughly enjoyed a 3-course lunch. The soups were fantastic - must copy! The main courses were also good, and desert was ice cream - or ice cream. We got back about 4pm - a good day.

We were having difficulties booking trains for our next move, as you can only book through main stations, and online booking is an indecipherable maze. Trains are very full too, so you need to keep going to the station to find a 'vacancy'. So, while we were in Kanykamari we booked ourselves into the hotel that owned the restaurant, and will stay there for the weekend, which will be a nice respite and also give us chance to get a train booking and access it easily - we hope!

Played with kids when got back, then went to prayers and Dave tried to record the kids singing without them knowing. It's a very short recording, but the sound is quite good. Three girls, twins and another, had birthdays today. They were gorgeous in pink tunics over flowered pink trousers, with glitter. We sang a rather odd version of Happy Birthday, then the birthday girls handed out sweets to everyone - that is the birthday treat! And they loved it!!

Indoors tonight as outside rather insecty! Sorry, not most exciting blog post!

Getting ready.....

Losing track of days....

Not sure what's going on in the world; kids see films, but we have neither TV or radio, except for intermittant and scratchy World Service, which always fades away before we can get the gist. Mind you, it sprang to life for a few minutes to give us the cricket score! Very Raj!

Today the weather has been like the very best of a British summer; very warm but with a nice breeze. I had my left hand (palm) henna painted by Dana Silvi, a lovely giirl who is in her first year of an engineering degree. She also helps with the girls' hostel while there is no 'lady warden'. Another girl brought me a rose which is now in my hair - no-one seems to find it unusual!

During the 'siesta hour' while the kids watch television, we went for a walk. We passed lots of people on foot and bikes, who all greeted us. We went to 'the bend in the road' passing coconut groves, rice fields and little banana gardens. We also saw egrets, ibis and huge storks (we think).O, and goats and also oxen with painted horns for Pongal. Bit 'mad dogs and Englishmen' but we enjoyed it. Life is so simple here - hard, basic, but wonderfully simple at best. Impossible at worst - the older people are stick-thin and have obviously lived hard lives. Things are improving a bit, but this is such a huge country with a massive population that it takes so l-o-n-g for things to change, even with the best will in the world.

We have ordered cakes for everyone tonight - from Llanfaelog - well, not literally. These will be distributed after prayers. Yesterday we gave letters from the childlren of Pencarnisiog, and gave everyone a Bic pen, so some are busy on replies. Turns out the pens write purple, which they seem to love. Some of the kids had the boxes the pens came in and seemed quite delighted. They were so pleased with such simple things. We would have bought cakes on arrival, but there was a full programme for Pongal, and chunks of sugar cane are tradtional 'sweets' for, that.

John seems more comfortable today too; we just called for a few minutes. I'm never sure of the etiquette of non=clergy visiting - what my Grandma called 'Coming to look at you.' I confess I wouldn't want to be 'looked at'!

Valioor shopping...

END OF PONGAL

The day after Pongal is still a holiday. Children here are outside so much that it's a holiday treat to be allowed to stay in and watch television.. Endless loud Bollywood drifting by!

We walked round the village and did a lot of smiling. Showed Dave the church and the Pastor appeared and let us in. He is lovely; first parish, just out of theological college and been here 7 months. Very interesting system. The Pastor looks after 13 churches, taking all services except communion, which is once a month when the priest comes. The churches in the bigger villages have MP & EP l... busy young man!!

Not sure if he will eventually be priested - more conversation needed. It is very simple to understand what a Pastor can and can't do. He cannot do anything in the sanctuary, can do all other services. I did wonder if I should offer an extra communion - but thought
I might cause riots, or at least embarrassment with the diocese. Will talk about such things when meeting organisors of huge lay/ministry project. I was asked if I would 'speak or sing' on Sunday. Not surprisingly I chose the former! Having problems with email access at the moment, so forgive me Bishop if I offer your greetings unsolicited!

Briefly, before contact lost, managed to pick up Diocesan website. Congratulations Stella - what will we do without you!? Tried to email you, but access lost...

We are getting quite used to waiting to see what we get for our meals. It's usually very simple, rice, veg and spices and fruit and very good. Spoiled rotten!. However yesterday being a holiday we had meat. I have heard rumours of fish today! Food is quite spicy, not always very hot spicy, and there are what look like privet leaves in everything; a fairly delicate flavour, but a bit chewy if you don't spot them. As well as water that is special for feeble foreigners, we have been supplied with a fizzy bright orange drink - known between oursel ves as ' a shot of e-numbers.' Doesn't taste too bad with gin....

Taking shoes off outside all buildings takes getting used to. You think you're well into it, the, whoops! you're indoors with shoes on! Went by 'auto' (Indian tuc-tuc) to nearest town, Valioor, to buy 'easy-off-and-on' shoes Much better!. Johnson - sub-warden - came with us; i think they think we need a minder - could be right! Bought big oranges, turned out to be giant clementine things - 6 for 30Rs (@40p) - quite delicious. Some shops still closed for Pongal.

Got back to find John (warden) had had an accident on his motor bike and damaged his leg and foot. No permanent damage, but obviously very painful. He goes back to hospital tomorrow and should be fine within a week. So, Johnson is looking after everything and doing a grand job. We told John when we visited today that we had been so impressed with his organisation of Pongal competitions. Everything was just so.

The rumour of fish proved true. A beautiful curry with fluffy rice and those fabulous popadums.

This is out of order, but we have power......

Pongal 3

The festivities recommenced in the boys' hall with singing, sketches and dancing. This is when we feel truly foreign - when everyone's laughing and we don't get the joke! Lots of good humour, I think some 'turns' were impressions, and no doubt some fine singing f you get your ear in to the tonal scale.The dancing was a mix of eastern elegance and break dancing, some very energetic. At the end (' 11pm - nobody goes to bed early, or gets up later than 6am, more like 5 - except us!) I realised that John was speaking English, then caught my name. Apparently I was presenting the day's prizes. All prizes were stainless steel pots and dishes, given with a formal handshake, a smile and comments they didn't understand but liked anyway. The photos were odd, we think the flickering of the erratic lights did something to the camera.

I've never been a grand prize giver before, and found myself doing it in tatty clothes, all hot and sticky, going on for ever - but loving it!

Schools

Pictures: Class 7 & School Kitchen

SCHOOLS

Yesterday we visited the local school in the village, where children from 1 to 5 standard go. We were towed along with much excitement at 9 o'clock, but the teacher hadn't arrived, so the kids took us on the grand tour. The school is a low building in disrepair, divided into two for 1 to 3 standard and 4 to5. The school kitchen is an open bit on the end of the school, accessible only from outside, where lunch is made. We were told to come and see the 'garden', and were proudly shown a tiny mudpatch behind the school, which they look after carefully. A few marigolds, some plants from orange pips and something vine-like that we couldn't pronounce were sprouting there.

Teacher arrived at 9.15 - late because the bus was late - and didn't seem to mind finding us there. She might have known we were coming - a very efficient bush telegraph system operates here - and obviously had no worries about the kids misbehaving in her absence. Behaviour here is amazing.

We watched them set up for lessons. This involved spreading mats on the floor, which became work areas. She explained that they are working to a new method in the curriculum (no, it isn't just us!) which is flash cards for the younger ones and exercise books for the older ones. They showed us their English reading books, which had stories like we had in the 50's, but with Indian context. ( Snakes!) Will try to attach pictures.

Today we went in the school bus to Anaikulum where the bit older children go. Squashed together in the bus, it is quite an exciting trip. We saw egrets, ibis, glossy goats, ox carts with oxen with painted horns (for Pongal, possibly) and lots of standing water (mozzies?!). The bus lurched along, as we prayed it wouldn't tip us into any water, goodness knows what lives in there! Anyway we arrived safely and were led excitedly in. We met two lovely girls from England, Maya and Venetia, in their gap year. They were half Indian and were volunteering for a while, staying at King's World Trust.

The headmaster roared up on his motor bike and greeted us warmly. We were taken to his office and shown the progress reports, then taken from class to class. Each 'classroom' is very run down, divided by board partitions, and teaching is very much the 'stand and deliver' method. The kids seem to work hard, and the school is swept and yard brushed conscientiously by the children when they arrive before lessons begin. We invited to assembly - open air prayers - before the classroom visits. A child appeared with with bottles of mango drink (+ straws..) and a packet of biscuits, just for us, while we waited for our auto to take us to King's World.

I met the Director, Mr. Naamani in 2004, and we were warmly welcomed to the palatial establishment. It is very posh, run on the 'Robin Hood' principle. 60% pay, which covers for 40% who can't. Capital costs are from funding, running costs from fees. Trouble is, for the poor kids, it takes them right out of their home environment, so will they ever fit back in?

However, it lovely to see Mr. Naamani again and to have a conversation easy English instead of part or all sign language. We also were brought elegantly served coffee and biscuits. Two treats in one morning! Naamani also helped us unravel the mysteries of the rail timetable, so maybe we will move on after all!

Back to our auto - driver asleep in the back, jumped awake. Took us to Valioor to bank, then found us a pharmacy where we managed to sign for and get stuff to ward off the biters - heaven!

Back here to lunch (on the table 10 minutes, said Christy) then little siesta (very hot today) then attempt to do blog, but power keeps cutting out. Am writing, but whether I will be able to post it up, who knows?

Big day out with staff tomorrow!

SUNDAY AFTER CHURCH Please note that blogs aren't always in date order, due to access problems. The date shown will be the date of posting it successfully, not necessarily the date of writing! Some older blogs might have pictures added later, or we might just put up a few picture blogs as and when......

Pictures: 'Crocodile' forming to walk to church.

St. James' very British looking church tower.

Church is quite an experience. The service starts at 9am prompt, but people wander in during the next 10 to15 minutes. I think the first 15 minute slot is spent in reading out the collection, with names, from the week before. Don't think that will fly in Llanfaelog!

II had been asked to say something 'before the message' so I was prepared to offer greetings from the Diocese and the parish and thank them for the warm welcome. However, just before the service started, the Catechist came and said he would introduce me, and I had 10 minutes! So, I sent greetings from Bishop and Diocese, Dean and Cathedral, parish and people. Speaking slowly, being translated hesitantly with the Catechist referring to Johnson who was sitting on the step of the doorway nearest the chancel steps, for help with translation, I rambled on about our ways being not the same, our dress not the same, our language not the same, our weather (!) not the same but our God is the same and we are happy to worship together. All that goes on in church is broadcast for miles around from huge speakers on the church tower, so goodness knows what came out in translation! I haven't quite managed to explore the place of women in the church of South India yet, but in Chinnamalpuram it reminds me a bit of what Dr. Samuel Johnson is alleged to have said, 'Women preaching is rather like dogs walking on their hind legs in the street. It's not that they do it well, but that they can do it at all'. They are, however, a good deal politer than the rude Doctor.

The service was Morning Prayer, each section pretty long. Everyone is dressed in their best (still Sunday Best here) women on one side of the church and men on the other. Most people sit on the floor - loads of children, good as gold, even tinies. Only the old, the infirm and visitors who don't fold up as well as the locals, sit on benches at the back. (Guess where we sat!) The singing is quite amazing. Sunday hymns are Sankey & Moody and are accompanied by a somewhat hesitant but enthusiastic harmonium, played by Mr. Kumar, the Grail Trustee. The tunes are recognisable, but the singing is a strange mix of Eastern and Western harmonies We ended, after over an hour and a half, with what I think was 'Praise to the Lord, the Almighty'....... Everything with that enormous enthusiasm. The Catechist preaches, or intones, for long periods at all services. We hear him broadcast over the village at morning and evening prayer- and a few things we haven't worked out yet. I would love to know what he's on about, I think! I don't think I'll invite him as a Harvest Preacher - it would take a weekend!

Came back from church with the crrocodile of kids, cold drinks, lunch. Christy invited us to visit her house in the afternoon, said she would come for us about 3pm. Another social occasion negotiated. Her brother, wife and children were visiting. All very smilley, no English. The eldest of the three boys had a little English and was lovely. The youngest, was a gorgeous child, but terrified of us, screamed the place down! They took him into the bedroom, where he was a bit happier. We got a wave and a smile, but when we responded he screamed again. Ah well, can't win 'em all!

The house was swept and clean, just two rooms, one with four plastic chairs, family pictures and a television. (Posh!) The bedroom was literally that, a tiny room that was entirely filled by a little bed - couldn't even close the door. There is a little outside kitchen (shed) like everywhere else. Kitchens are not in the house - they catch fire too often. In this area there is a different kind of clean than what we're used to. Cooking pots are clean, clothes are clean, everything else is just swept over with a whisk brush. Photos we take tend to sanitize the view, walls are usually peeling and a bit ramshackle and everything pretty run down. Maintenance isn't high on the agenda, survival is the main thing.

We all smiled at each other a lot, and a plate of biscuits appeared followed by two bottles of orange pop with straws. (More E numbers!)Hospitality is so important, and it is hard to accept when you know they can't afford it, but etiquette insists. The rest of the family didn't have anything, just watched us with apparent enjoyment. We knew all about the thing about 'beware of straws, they might be second hand, or more', but we grinned and enjoyed it and are still here to tell the tale.

When we arrived everything looked so tatty and seedy, dirty even, but we have got our eye in now and it all looks OK. Sitting on our verandah in the hot afternoon we wonder if all the pictures of the Raj are also sanitized, and maybe everything was seedy then - and without electricity! The fans make a huge difference, until the generator packs up, which is often.

When we got back from visiting there was a great hue and cry outside. The boys had seen a snake - it slithered over someone's foot - and the girls were all dashing off to see it, but not too close! If you know me well you will know that the two things I am most scared of in the universe are dentists and snakes, so I stayed put while Dave went to look. He came back and said, 'It's only a little cobra...' !!!!!! The watchman ( known by us as Groundkeeper Willie - Simpsons fans will understand-) had caught it with a long stick and killed it. I was persuaded to go and see. It was a bit sad really, but I prefer my snakes dead, I'm afraid.

Otherwise, all fine. Could get used to three meals a day prepared for us. Lunch and dinner are on the table when ready, whether we're here or not. There is a large insulated dish for the main item, and it's lovely lifting the lid in anticipation. Simple but delicious food, and smells wonderful with the herbs and spices. Still haven't identified the leaves that look like privet, but they are in everything.

Managed to access the web last night and put quite a bit of blog and some pictures up, but the power went and crashed most of it. Will try again tonight if possible.

Today is Pongal ! We have just witnessed the ceremony of boiling over a pot of rice heated over sugar cane leaves. We awoke to welcome and Pongal patterns chalked on our doorstep and in the sand, very intricate and beautiful. Pongal is the Tamil harvest - treat in store for Llanfaelog come October! I have jasmine in my hair - don't know where we'll find that in October!
The children have just gone for breakfast - peace for a few minutes! - then they will collect us for a day of celebrations - races, singing etc. - all accompanied by loud Caribean-sounding music. Gather this goes on all day and into the night. More later...

Later....

Just negotiated our first social engagement, John (Warden), Johnson(sub-warden) and Mr Kumar, the (?) Chairman of the Indian Trustees, arrived and took us to put a garland on Dr. Lesley's grave. This is a tile monument in an enclosure like a marquee with blue flowers growing around and up it. The ceremony consisted of taking off shoes, washing feet in flowing hosepipe water, then pouring water over the monument. The Chairman said a prayer in Tamil, then we stood there a bit awkwardly before retrieving shoes and coming back to guesthouse. Yet more food awaited. Idlhi (rice cakes) and a very hot chilli and garlic sauce, then a sweet thing of rice, fruit and ginger. So much food! Hope it isn't lunch time for ages! We ate with 'implements' and made more mess than the men who ate with fingers. More slghtly awkward conversation and silences, but fine, we think. Now we will go off to observe sports etc.

Arrival in Trivandrum.... We were upgraded for the flight from Dhubai - don't know why, theory is that Dave was wearing a jacket, albeit a crumpled linen one. Trouble was, we couldn't keep the posh cutlery as planned with the plastic in steerage, as Tamil Nadu people eat with fingers so we need to carry 'implements'. See, everything has a drawback!! However, the charming service from the dishy young steward, and the champagne and real crockery were appreciated. Arrived in Trivandrum @ 4am, temp. 26C. There had been a delay while some luggage was removed as the passengers didn't turn up and we had joked perhaps it was ours after the upgrade. Began to worry it wasn't a joke as luggage and huge parcels appeared b y the thousand, but not our stuff. It did appear eventually and we emerged into seething humanity crowded round the barrier. Someone spotted us and the three who had driven through the night welcomed us. So began the nightmare ride (2-3 hours) to Chinnamalpuram. Dave was scared too - very! However, we made it and were greeted rapturously by children. Eventually we crashed about 8.30am to be awoken @ 9 for breakfast. Mingled a bit, then crashed, then unpacked - well, sort of. The champagne flight begins to look very silly from here!

it is extremely hot here and quite humid but today there is a breeze. Everything looked sparse and tatty when we arrived but we are soon gettting our eye in, and it all looks OK now.

Christy who cooks for us can't understand our desire for tea brewed with water not milk (and the milk is very strange) so she makes it very strong with buckets of sugar. She is lovely and gives us far too much food. Hospitality is big here and so generous. Hard to accept when they have so little themselves.

Tuesday 9pm

About to board for Trivandrum. Dubai is fabulous - seen all the famous sights -pictures later. 24C in day -summer often @ 58C! Picture of very posh store that amused us + us crossing the Creek on an 'abra' for 20p. Off to India now.... Quick PS - just been upgraded to business class!!!!!!

Monday, Dubai

Not the easiest afternoon! Had adventure finding Post Office, had lunch somewhere, then walked legs off. Got taxi - driver didn't know where hotel was, and after discussion and suggestions from us finally found the road - then charged us three times the price! O British cabby with 'The Knowledge' - where are you? Found new Metro, but 'our' bit wasn't finished....ah well!! Then - disaster - realised camera lost! All those wonderful (honestly!) pictures.. So, will attempt to upload some of Dave's, but not quite what I planned. Will borrow his camera and try to retake some tomorrow.

Weather hot and sunny after big storm last night. Marvellous meal last night at train-style restaurant Royal Express. Took photos......

Dubai, Monday. Amazing place - staying near creek- arrived to gentle 20C at 1am. Big storm last night. Now hot and sunny, so going out! Having some problems connecting - will persevere and post pictures up later.

Day One - fly tomorrow 1.30pm assuming airport stays open! Early check-in, so staying over in Manchester. Can't believe we're leaving in snow (garden picture) and it's hard to pack for warm weather with this outside! So here we go!

Sunday before departure, Epiphany. Odd to think I won't see most people until almost Easter, but getting exciting now too. Thank you for all your good wishes and support - I hope you will enjoy following our journey over the next few weeks.