DELHI TWO

Pictures: Presentation of Prayer Book

Grand vestry (get building, Roy!)

Congregation at tea in cathedral garden

Cart of dyes for Holi festival

Tuc-tuc race - well, not really, just normal traffic

Had a really good day today. Early start to English service in the Cathedral - taxi actually found it first time as we now know it is near the Mughal Gardens. At 8.25am the 8.30 service looked thinly attended, but as with all the others the congregation grew in the first 10 minutes of so, and there was actually a congregation of around 300. The service was a mix of old and new, and was choral. The congregation seemed keener on the newer hymns than A & M! The second hymn was 'Great is Thy Faithfulness' and I thought of Joan Pritchard and the little point of a finger as she always said, 'All I have needed...' The sermon was very good indeed, and delivered with humour and reality.

Tea was served in the garden afterwards - again by the men - and we chatted with people, even one lady who, when told we were from Bangor Diocese, said 'Oh, in Wales!' First one, I think, that we've met.

We learned such a lot about CNI andDelhi Diocese. We spent ages there, including a long chat with the Senior Presbyter (Dean) who had marvellous English and was very interested in the way we do things. He was really taken by the idea of a bilingual prayer book and thought he would raise the idea! Must send him one to see. He also presented me with a CNI prayer book, which delighted me. One of things I love in their book is the absolution, which says ..'God who forgives those who forgive each other.....' As we've said before, travel broadens the liturgy! The Bishop was also at the service, but dashed off afterwards as he has just become a new grandfather.

The Cathedral has three languages, English, Hindi and Tamil, all with separate services - at least, for now! There are a lot of Tamils in Delhi, and the diocese supports a leper children's home in Tamil Nadu, having a grand annual fete which raises large amounts for the home. I've brought back details! As with all our other contacts, there was so much more than can go in a blog post.

Monday is a holiday called Holi. This is a Hindu festival - a bit new-moon-fertility-rite thing, slightly frowned on by some but popular everywhere. The main ritual is the chucking of coloured dyes on everyone. These dyes, in powder form, are sold from carts in the streets. It all promises to be very messy! Took tuc-tuc back to hotel- given up being scared in traffic now - and are still trying to contact the Delhi Brotherhood and children's project. Apparently Fr Ian Weatherall is in hospital, which explains contact problems, but we have had other numbers from the Dean. Here's hoping!

Pictures: Lotus Temple (Bahai)

Revival!

Cathedral Church of the Redemption

Wonderful sweet peas in Cathedral garden

Boy and big monkey employed to scare off the pest monkeys!

DELHI

Made it to Delhi - a little ahead of schedule, but no bad thing as it would have been worse to miss the plane home. Found the hotel and spirits fell a bit. The area was none too salubrious, and the hotel lobby didn't inspire confidence. Our room is on 4th floor up a rattly lift and is such a surprise. A really lovely room with balcony (never mind the outlook!) and bathroom with tub - heaven! The staff are a bit persistent about trips etc, no doubt arranged at double the going rate, but are quite courteous so long as you don't mind waiting for things. Anything you remind them of, the answer is, 'Just coming..' The guy who looks after the rooms on this top floor takes it all very personally ('You are my guests, I look after') and wants you to check and pronounce yourself satisfied when he has cleaned the room. I confess I always said men couldn't make beds, but watching this guy, I have to admit some can!!

Delhi is just as filthy and monstrous as we remember from a fleeting visit with a tour group. It has some lovely parts, but they seem so much at odds with what else you see. Lots of people sleep in the street and many more do very menial jobs for a pittance just to keep body and soul together. The traffic is terrifying, the smog is pretty heavy and the rubbish in the streets is horrendous. Add the touts and scams to all this and Delhi isn't a place to linger. We did a quick dash round some of the sights (yes, the driver tried to take us to his uncle/brother/relative's shops!) and enjoyed the Red Fort and Humayan's Tomb. Visited the Bahai Lotus Temple, loved the gardens and the building is quite something, but found it somehow smug and self-satisfied. Shame!

Tried to contact Delhi Brotherhood to visit. Ian flies in stuff for street children to them and I am in email contact with them, so we wanted to meet them, but were surprised to get no reply to emails and telephone calls. So we bravely went looking. After much misdirection we found the cathedral, and there was a revival going on in the schoolroom next door. Explains where everyone is. Lots of people, much singing and dancing and clapping (see picture) and we were made very welcome. There was the usual massive enthusiasm and people of varying ethnic origins and languages joined in together without hesitation. The cathedral is in the posh part of Delhi, but doesn't seem to suffer from ex-pat syndrome (you know, photo of the Queen behind the altar..) The people we met were friendly, down- to- earth and everyone seemed to be involved in the worship and maintenance in some way. One unusual problem they have is there are too many monkeys in the grounds and they wreck the garden, so a boy with a big monkey is employed daily to keep the monkeys off the flowers etc! (see picture) Arranged to be at Cathedral tomorrow to meet people and learn more.

Pictures:

N ot washing - prayer flags!

The tree at the end of the universe - 500ft drop after the tree!

Main road to Darjeeling!

Tibetan knitter

Tea garden, but not as we know it...
DARJEELING - is it our cup of tea?
Quite a day! Taxi to airport, good timing, pleasant check-in, nice airport. Plane came in, but no-one seemed in any hurry. Began to worry as our connecting flight in Delhi had only a half hour gap. Boarded half an hour late, so mentioned to the flight attendant that we should have a connecting flight. She took the onward tickets to 'show pilot' then gve them back. Resigned to missing plane.... Otherwise Jet Airlines pretty impressive, plenty of legroom and lovely staff. Arrived in Delhi just after our plane was due to take off. But ... ground staff waiting, sent us posh bus of our own, and said would try to get our luggage, but if not would send it on tomorrow. Settle for that - obviously only one flight a day! And then two baggage handlers appeared with our cases, slung them on the bus and off we went straight to the waiting aircraft. Two more baggage handlers met the bus, took the cases to load, we boarded and the plane took off! Amazing! There was a quick stop in a place we'd never heard of, and during that short stop a flight attendant came and asked if we would like food. Yes!! He brought us boxes with lovely chicken sandwiches, chocolate brownies and drinks for the princely sum of £2.50 each, and it was delicious. Pretty good service eh? And the plane made up the time! l Very quick baggage collection, taxi arranged by hotel waiting for us for the 100k journey to Darjeeling.
An interesting journey! Mad traffic, nothing new there. Then we began to climb! Hairpin bends, massively potholed narrow road, sheer drops, no barrier, narrow train track weaving across road, much oncoming traffic, often large and very insistent. Stopped at about 5000 feet at cafe with terrific hot chocolate, and massive drop right below! Onwards and upwards. The most terrifying ride ever, took about 4 hours, climbed to about 7000 feet, and here we are in Darjeeling. We stopped worryng part way up - just hoped to survive!
Darjeeling isn't beautiful, though it might have been once. It is crowded and grubby, but looks as if it might be interesting to explore tomorrow. However, the hotel actually starts on the 4th floor, up steep marble steps. Our room is at the top, another two steep flights, no lift. Also the air is thinner here! Felt very sorry for the lads who carried the luggage! Actually felt pretty sorry for myself too! The room is very nice, timbered walls, carpets, little wetroom bathroom, even a little TV. But those stairs!!! When I phoned the man said he could find us a room tonight and we could choose a better one tonorrow. This is fine - but I might never come out! He sent tea up, and said that as the restaurant is on the ground floor (6 flights down!) we coud order room service if we want. We want! Now waiting... There is a little lounge with smoky log fire one flight down, but can't be bothered just now! However, all should be well as Dave has ordered dinner and extra pillows and had a chat with Tibetan owner and we will move to a suite (!?)in their other property tomorrow. Of course it might not be wonderful but it sounds fine, just a bit further from the town, but having seen the town, that ain't a problem. So, we are not downhearted - and we have had our first glimpse of Kanchenjunga! Rather hazy today, but hopefully all will appear. Another adventure!
Few minutes later - they just brought us hot water bottles!
DAY TWO
Well, it hasn't got any better! Hard beds, lots of noise outside all night, little sleep. Nice breakfast though. We had a wander round this morning as we waited to move, and in the sun Darjeeling didn't look quite so bad. The people at the first hotel were really lovely, but the stairs were horrendous and once a day was more than enough. So, towards midday we went off in a taxi to 'Hawk's Nest Luxury Suites'. Mmmm! We do have a bedroom and a sitting room plus wetroom bathroom, but there are absolutely no amenities, and it is up a horrendous track. Only consolation is that, unlike stairs, you can get a taxi up a track! The TV is rubbish, there is no internet, and it is bigger than the last place but otherwise less, not more, deluxe. Also it is freezing cold! Went back to explore town this afternoon, and guess we've seen it now. OK for a quick visit, but very scruffy and dirty with all but the square full of horrendous roaring Landrovers in convoy. Final insult, it is cloudy and the Himalayas are not visible - Kanchenjunga should be right in front of us, but....
We asked for a fire tonight (at a cost) and are still waiting. Problem is how to arrange to escape, as mobiles only work on text and there is no STD here, so booking flights and hotels is difficult until we can get to the town tomorrow. Wish I'd braved those stairs now!! Probably all seems much worse because we are so tired after everything! Darjeeling was not the best idea we ever had!
Fire and dinner eventually came, so things a bit brighter, but still very cold. Gave up and went to bed early........
DAY THREE
Decided not to linger, so had jeep (and driver) to look around then take us down to Siliguri to catch a flight to Delhi tomorrow. All was redeemed when we had a Tibetan driver who took us to see tHe Japanese temple and the Peace Pagoda, complete with chanting monks who rise and open the temple at 4am. Wonderful spot! We had coffee on the roof terrace of a scruffy but nice little cafe and the mist had lifted a bit, so we got glimpses of the Kanchenjunga massif, but obviously we aren't going to see the full monty. Sad. Our lovely driver then then took us up a horrendous narrow little concrete track to a Tibetan Refugee Centre. Here we saw people earning a living by simple and lovely handicrafts. Old ladies were spinning, weaving, carpet making and knitting, there was carpentry and craft work and there was a small area (compared to the big plantations) of tea growing. There was also a photo gallery with the Tibetan story - made us quite angry with China! I didn't know China had a quarter of its missiles on Tibetan soil, as well as other simiar hardware, and large troop numbers. No wonder they don't want to let Tibet go! Our driver was Tibetan and, at the age of three, was carried across by his father, travelling by night and lyng low by day, through
Bhutan and eventually into West Bengal and Darjeeling.
After a long visit, many photographs and a fair bit of shopping, we left and set off back down the hairpin road to Siliguri. Actually, it seemed OK, maybe we are getting used to hanging on and hoping for the best - the driver obviously expected to get home tonight, so.....
Found a real hotel in Siliguri for the night - seems to have the features hotels normally have - so we settled in to a late lunch of fish and chips and beer. Heaven! So, all ended well. Off to Delhi tomorrow.

Riding up to Amber

Observatory

Lunch - 'Golden Peacock'

Palace of the Winds

Amber Fort

JAIPUR

The Amber Fort at Jaipur is one of my favourite places in the world, and I did hope Jaipur would not disappoint this time! Although Jaipur itself is pretty scruffy and rather smelly, and a bit pestiferous to tourists, it still has so much that is wonderful. And no, it didn't disappoint.

We took a day off and had a car and driver and went to see all we could. Terrific. Started with the Amber Palace Fort, as you have to go in the morning if you want to ride up on an elephant. The lake below the fort, where we saw elephants bathing last time, is competely dry and the rain isn't due for a couple of months. The magnificent floating gardens are surrounded by mud and look very sad. The fort is such an atmospheric place. Its situation is amazing, with views to hgh peaks, down to the valley, across to a floating palace (which does have water in the lake - I think the Maharajah demands it!), across to a wall resembling the Great Wall of China and to a higher defence fort above. The buildings of the palace/fort are so beautiful, and the hall of mirrors is amazing. A place to spend time.

We then went to Fort Jaighar, the high defence fort, less glamorous, but an amazing situation. This has the largest wheeled gun in the world, built for 4 elephants to manoever, and only fired once in test, range 22 miles - more of a deterrent than anything, we thought.

Down to the City Palace, one of the homes of the Maharajah. Surrounded by rubbish and squalor, goats. cows and pigs in amongst the horrendous traffic, the palace is quite beautiful and quite a bit is open to tourists, including a very elegant little cafe where we had lunch. We ordered beer, a rare treat, with our lunch, choosing 'Golden Peacock' over the rather fizzy 'Kingfisher, and it was plonked on the table very quickly as the waiter said, 'Just a minute get glasses but is last bottle!' Tasted wonderful! There was a snake charmer in the street as we left - gave him a wide berth! - and also bought a peacock feather fan.

Found a little gem of a temple and gardens with fountains, absolute magic, little known. Then visited the Rajmandir cinema. Had to buy tickets though film long started, but went in to see the amazing, totally unspoiled, huge1920's art deco foyer. Wow! Cold drinks at alcove table. Never seen anything like this place.

Tried to find supermarket for bits and pieces, but there doesn't seem to be any such thing, just hundreds of tiny shops and apart from tourist shops it's hard to work out what to get where and most are none too salubrious.

Should have mentioned the hotel. Run by two brothers who are Buddhist, it is a masterpiece of hand painting, all walls and ceilings intricately decorated. (see small sample in picture) There is a rooftop restaurant, also all painted, and it is very clean and nice. It is, however, rather agressively vegetarian - no eggs even - and definitely no alcohol. There is a little hotel round the corner with more variety and even Kingfisher beer, but the restaurant is up four flights of very steep, narrow marble stairs, very scary, especially when a waiter dashes past with a sizzling dish! From our roof we have seen some fine fireworks displays from wedding venues.

We have worried so much about reaching Delhi in time for the flight home that we have got a bit ahead of ourselves. We had hoped, though not expected, to make it to Darjeeling, so we will fly up there to the high Himalayas tomorrow. Exciting! Just had to buy some cold weather shoes!

Organist & Choir Mistress

ALL SAINTS

Soon after arival in Jaipur we found an Anglican church about 10 mnutes' walk away. The notice board proudly proclaimed it to be 'Ex -Church of England'! Made contact with Presbyter J.C. Joseph, and learned a lot about the Church of North India. Like CSI it is a fairly recent amalgamation, and is very sensitive to the fact that there are different traditions combined, so a great effort is made to include all and to alienate none. Despite the notice board, they are very proud to be Anglican. Lay people play a large part in worship and in social life - for example, during Lent there is Bible Study every day, varying times, led by people in their own homes, known as 'Cottage Study'. There is lots of lay participation in worship, and lay members with a Bishop's licence may also preach. Will try to go to Communion on Sunday - a treat as it's English - and meet more people.

At first sight of the church you could be in the UK. Built in 1873, it is a stone church with spire and all the 'usual trimmings'. It has a garden, which is lovely and which is quite a sight seen from the main porch through the church and out of the facing door - open, of course to let some air in! The only real giveaway that you are not in the UK is a series of fans from the ceiling. I t is most beautifully kept and in excellent order - unlike most things in Jaipur! The church also runs a large school, and is preparing to build a mother and toddler unit on the land next door. Again, lots of social involvement.

Went to the service 9am Sunday. As elsewhere people trickled in and out, but there was a big congregation and great enthusiasm. The prayer book is a modern version of 1662 - even the Lord's Prayer is modern - and the hymns are A & M. We began with 'Oh Jesus I have Promised ' which I found very nostalgic and really missed Llanfaelog! The sermon for Lent 1 was excellent - a couple of good ideas to hang on to! - and he preached from James, which many of you know is a favourite of mine. Lovely choir too.

After the service there was tea (made by the men) in the courtyard. Presbyter Joseph said we must stay for tea 'It's the Anglican tradition, you know!' Everyone was friendly and they were obviously happy to be together, which was lovely. Very nostalgic!

MARKET GOA
After catching up on church of South India, we are ready to move on and it will be Church of North India from now on. Both had similar foundations, but have developed with differences so their attitudes to ministry and social projects will not be the same in detail.
Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.
MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

Roy, get to work building - my new pulpit!

How about the chandelier?

GOA CHURCHES

Old Goa, the capital, was the first centre for Christianity. Christianity was introduced by the Franciscans, and given later impetus by Francis Xavier when he founded the Jesuit mission in 1542. The Inquisition began soon after and all faiths other than Catholicism were banned. Consequently Hindus who had converted took Portugese names to be on the safe side and there are lots of Indian families with Portugese names still. The mortal remains of Francis Xavier are in a crystal coffin in the Cathdral of the Bom Jesus (Good Jesus), see notice in photo. A little further on a notice tells us that there is a monstrance in the sacristy (closed) that contains 'a finger of Francis Xavier which fell off in 1854.'

The Portugese built amazing churches and cathedrals all close together in the city, but little now remains of the city of Old Goa except those churches and cathedrals. There is the Cathedral of the Bom Jesus, the Se Cathedral and the Cathedral of Francis of Assisi, others having now become 'departments' of one kind and another. By 1843 the port at Old Goa had silted up, and the population had been decimated by malaria and cholera, so the capital shifted to Panjim. The magnificent churches that remain are in landscaped gardens and some of the buildings house museums, archeolgical exhibitions and art galleries. They are wonderful to visit, but are not part of a living environment.

Luxury resort?

Blackpool?

Mmmm

Path to our new, clean abode!

GOA???

Well, I suppose we knew we had to make a big mistake somewhere along the line - and today was it! We were having problems synchronising flights to Goa, taxi to Bangalore airport, and transfers to a hotel. The hotel was suggested by the Thomas Cook rep in Mysore who seemed very helpful. Fine, taxi came - almost on time. Maybe should have worried it wasn't a/c for a '3 hour' trip, but thought 'Open windows will do...' Long nightmare ride through horrendous traffic, often stifling in jams, took 4 hours or more. Nice airport, easy boarding etc. SpiceJet is a budget airline, but OK, and arrived on time in Goa. Taxi was waiting with our name on a board - always fancied that - and away we went for the '45 minute journey' to a 'really nice hotel near Panjim.' Well over an hour later, long past Panjim, we came to a place called Calagute, and turned off down a grim lane lined with rubbish. 'Keep hoping' we said. No, no point, the hotel was a dim and dusty 'luxury resort' that was the most depressing place you ever saw. Everything you touched left your hand dirty, and there was a little pool that was so grey you couldn't see the bottom. The whole place smelled - don't ask! - and basically just would not do, even trying very hard to be stoical! No phone to phone out, mobiles didn't work there, no internet.... Worst of all for the first time, because we had used an agent, we had booked and paid for 3 nights in advance.

Finally texted Martin, (eldest son)who stayed in Candolim ten years ago, and asked where he stayed. He replied fast with name and number. We phoned; no rooms. However, a rather downmarket associated place had a room. Apologised to very nice staff, (people tend to be nice, even if place isn't. I think it's that 'different kind of clean' I've mentioned before) ,called taxi and left. (Same taxi as from airport.) Eventually found new place - restaurant in front looked OK, so saw room. Clean, basic but quite comfortable, nice staff - no a/c but at least the fan works. Booked one night only - will see what tomorrow brings. Decent meal, unexciting but OK. VERY large gin (2 to be honest) - thank goodness this place isn't dry!

Trying hard not to be a travel snob but the place seems to be full of British holiday makers who don't seem to know this is India - just hot Blackpool Gather that the place has changed somewhat in last few years, and is lots of 'fish 'n chips' and 'real pub'. Also been huge influx of Russian visitors, all menus etc are 'in English and Russian'.. Lots of vodka advertised too. No longer keen to spend a lot of time in Goa.

Ah well, tomorrow is another day! We'll find the churches etc and make use of a short stay!

MYSORE 2
Mysore seems to be the hub of what's going on in Karnataka diocese. They are a very structured diocese, and do a lot ecumenically. They have projects of all kinds, and the star one is a youth programme run from a mobile unit that goes to villages, staffed mainly by youngsters. Again, lay ministry features prominently - they couldn't possibly so so much otherwise! I haven't met Rev. Peter Soars yet, so not sure of ministry structure in St. Barnabas' but they do seem to have a woman on the staff. Will find out more later!
Went on bus up Chamundi Hill late morning. Scary bus ride - big drops and high speeds - but found panoramic views and market at top. Great fun! Also Ganesh temple, so wonderful smells from flowers of garland makers. Huge queues for temple, and we saw wonderful Brahma bull with cow and youngster just wandering around the market. Lots to see, and mostly not very pestiferous traders! Oh dear, what a shame we have to consider weight for baggage allowance - but perhaps just as well!
Got off bus on way back at the Zoo. Fantastic - as good as a safari park. Animals beautifully kept in large areas, and mostly in big groups. It was 3.5 kilometers round in great heat, but well worth it. Star for us was a family of elephants. We watched them for ages. Fortunately there were drinks stands (unusual in parks etc) because we drank gallons! Altogether a great day.
Move on tomorrow, this time to next state, which is Goa. Staying near Panjim, the capital. Understand that central Goa is 'heavily Christian' and has some pretty ancient churches - big Portugese influence. Will see. Been from Tamil Nadu state, which is huge, through Kerala, also huge, through Karnataka which is much smaller, on into Goa, also huge. We fly with Spice Jet from Bangalore tomorrow. After Goa we will need longer flight to head north if we want to make Delhi in time.

SPECIAL POST FOR TREVOR & MARY

Happy anniversary!

This was meant to be a movie, but couldn't load it, so hope still picture OK. Have a good one! Luv, M&D

MYSORE - Shiva's birthday!
Tried to make contact with various churches here, but found them either closed or celebrating Harvest /New Year. Yes, I know they celebrate New Year with Christmas and with Pongal in Tamil Nadu, but they also celebrate it with Harvest, a sort of new beginning. The churches are lavishly decorated and the celebrations go on for a week. Some of the canopies hung in the roofing are a sight to behold - some church wardens must have no Health and Safety qualms! No pictures of these decorations yet, but hopefully we will be able to take some when there is no service in progress. I know we tend to have large congregations at Harvest, but some of these are truly enormous! One of the churches is a 'Wesley Cathedral', which isn't something we've come across before - a sort of Methodist- with- trimmings arrangement. I hope to get more information on patterns of ministry and projects from people at St. Barnabas, a CSI church not far from here. There is also a rather amazing RC church, St. Philomena's, which I still need to get access to. All the churches seem to have social programmes, and CSI and its lay-ministry schemes is very advanced. Lots of theories as to why such a traditional church managed to pioneer so much lay ministry - am working on it!
One of the reasons some churches were closed yesterday was that it was a kind of 'bank holiday'. It was the celebration of Shiva's birthday, and the celebrations were huge. Lots of loud music, people sitting in the street stringing flower garlands, wonderful smell of roses, jasmine and marigolds, and lots of cows with coloured fur wandering around amid the motor bikes, autos, bullock carts etc.
The Maharajah's Palace here is quite something, and at weekends is lit for an hour or so in the evenings with 100,000 bulbs. As it was Shiva's birthday it was lit for an extra time yesterday evening, so we wandered around and - oh my goodness! - it was one of the most amazing sights we've ever seen! Never seen it in one of those 'so-many things to see before you die' books, but it should be in them all. I will attach as many photos as Blogger will let me, but whatever it looks like, it was much more! It was an absolutely magic evening, walked our legs off, then staggered back to the hotel and decided it was definitely a gin fizz experience!
Been back to see the Palace in daylight, including the interior and it is really fabulous. Hard to pick out the best bits - possibly a wonderful stained-glass peacock dome (made in Glasgow!) - or the Gold Throne room, or the carvings, or the solid silver doors or...well the list is endless. We haven't been to many great tourist places here, as that wasn't the object of the exercise, but this was an unexpected and fantastic bonus. Everyone should see it!
MYSORE - Shiva's birthday!
Tried to make contact with various churches here, but found them either closed or celebrating Harvest /New Year. Yes, I know they celebrate New Year with Christmas and with Pongal in Tamil Nadu, but they also celebrate it with Harvest, a sort of new beginning. The churches are lavishly decorated and the celebrations go on for a week. Some of the canopies hung in the roofing are a sight to behold - some church wardens must have no Health and Safety qualms! No pictures of these decorations yet, but hopefully we will be able to take some when there is no service in progress. I know we tend to have large congregations at Harvest, but some of these are truly enormous! One of the churches is a 'Wesley Cathedral', which isn't something we've come across before - a sort of Methodist- with- trimmings arrangement. I hope to get more information on patterns of ministry and projects from people at St. Barnabas, a CSI church not far from here. There is also a rather amazing RC church, St. Philomena's, which I still need to get access to. All the churches seem to have social programmes, and CSI and its lay-ministry schemes is very advanced. Lots of theories as to why such a traditional church managed to pioneer so much lay ministry - am working on it!
One of the reasons some churches were closed yesterday was that it was a kind of 'bank holiday'. It was the celebration of Shiva's birthday, and the celebrations were huge. Lots of loud music, people sitting in the street stringing flower garlands, wonderful smell of roses, jasmine and marigolds, and lots of cows with coloured fur wandering around amid the motor bikes, autos, bullock carts etc.
The Maharajah's Palace here is quite something, and at weekends is lit for an hour or so in the evenings with 100,000 bulbs. As it was Shiva's birthday it was lit for an extra time yesterday evening, so we wandered around and - oh my goodness! - it was one of the most amazing sights we've ever seen! Never seen it in one of those 'so-many things to see before you die' books, but it should be in them all. I will attach as many photos as Blogger will let me, but whatever it looks like, it was much more! It was an absolutely magic evening, walked our legs off, then staggered back to the hotel and decided it was definitely a gin fizz experience!
Been back to see the Palace in daylight, including the interior and it is really fabulous. Hard to pick out the best bits - possibly a wonderful stained-glass peacock dome (made in Glasgow!) - or the Gold Throne room, or the carvings, or the solid silver doors or...well the list is endless. We haven't been to many great tourist places here, as that wasn't the object of the exercise, but this was an unexpected and fantastic bonus. Everyone should see it!