maelogindia

2010-03-02T06:45:00.000-08:00

Pictures: Goodbye India

Hello Dubai

Dubai after rain!

Watery sun

Looking through the letters we are bringing from Grail for children in Pencarnisiog school, we found one for Dave and thought you might like to read it - double click to enlarge.

HOME TIME
Having done all we set out to do, and not being able to visit the Delhi Brotherhood, we found ourselves with a bit of time to spare in Delhi. Sounds great, but Delhi is not a nice place and, to be honest, we are shattered, so we decided to bring our flights forward a few days. This whole trip has been a wonderful experience, but has certainly not been hassle free or relaxing! We have tried to keep the blog interestng and on the whole upbeat, but we have met so many people in so many places and tried to take in so much information that it will take some time to organise it all. We have learned so much - mostly what we set out to learn, but quite a bit else as well.
Coming home seemed to be the simple option. How wrong can you be? We phoned Emirates and arranged to change the flights. They had no through flights, so it meant a night in Dubai, so we asked them to book the stopover and transfers and gave them a card number. The guy said they closed at 6pm, being a public holiday, but at 5.40 the phone went dead. We were left wondering if our booking was made......
We went to the airport early, and after much discussion and waiting were told there was a booking. Relief! Hotel? Transfers? Nobody knew or cared! In the end we emailed the hotel, adding that they should check if Emirates had already booked. That meant a taxi from the airport too. No booking had been made, so at least we had a nice room even if it did cost a lot more than an Emirates deal. Have emailed them, but no response!
Extra surprise - Dubai is wet, very! They have had floods and the subways have been accessed by entrepreneurs with a supermarket trolley wheeling people through! Still warm, late 20's C, but very wet. We have carted lightweight waterproofs all round India, complaining that we needn't have bothered, but today they came in handy! A watery sun came out later, but not the usual. Feel sorry for anyone here for a beach holiday!
The Kindness of Strangers....
Tennessee Williams' phrase has often come to mind, and we certainly appreciate why Kate Adie used it to title her autobiography. Lasting memories will certainly include many kindnesses, ranging from Christy and Johnson at Grail, the young seminarian in Cochin and the Buddhists from Bury St. Edmunds, the bookshop owner and the young man from Thomas Cook in Calicut, the people at the temple in Mangalore, the guy on the night train who reorganised the sleeping arrangements, the aging bikers from Lancashire (long grey locks and bandanas) in Mysore, the staff of the little hotel in Goa, Mrs Dekeling in Darjeeling, and several clergy and church people everywhere we've been, particularly the two Deans.
We have seen lots of wonderful work and projects and have a much better understanding of the massive needs and unlikely solutions to so many desperate situations, and have realised what a wonderful thing it is to bring hope and self-respect to people at the bottom of the heap.
As we remember and reflect I think we will go on learning for a very long time!
　
　
　
　

Delhi Brotherhood

2010-03-01T22:52:00.000-08:00

DELHI BROTHERHOOD
We were very disappointed not to be able to visit the Brotherhood, due to bad timing really, it being a holiday time and Fr. Weatherall being in hospital. However, we did get lots of information and were amazed at the scope of their work.
They began when a group of priests from Cambridge (the Cambridge Brotherhood), under the inspiration of Bishop Westcott, went out to India to start a higher education programme in1887. What started as a small endeavour has grown into a large social organsation. All the Brothers take a vow to remain single and to devote their whole lives to serving the poor and needy. The part that we have contact with in Llanfaelog is the Street and Working Children Project. Ian, a pilot in our congregation, asked if we could find a contact to which he could take children's clothes etc when he flies to India, and could be sure they would actually go to children and not onto the black market. The Delhi diocese supplied details of the Brotherhood, and Ian has visited them regularly for a few years now. I have been in email contact, and was really looking forward to visiting! Ah well! Anyway, we now know a lot more about them and their work, which is tremendous and have obtained pictures.
As well as the street children project run by Brother Daniel Monodeep, the Brotherhood runs a Day Centre for the elderly, a Boys' Home, a Nght Shelter, an HIV/AIDS centre, an old people's home and a Womens' Empowerment Programme - and I don't think even that is a comprehensive list!
The Brotherhood campaigns actively for the end of child labour, and for the integration of street and working children into normal society, so that they can eventually support themselves by qualifications or a trade. This is pretty much the ethos of the Grail Trust in the south where we began our journey. and of the Delhi Cathedral project to support children of leprosy stricken families. When a young person is enabled to support themselves, then whole famlies can be transformed. Seeing the size of India and the vast numbers of people makes you realise just how big the problems are and what a huge task the government has to try to raise standards. We heard on the news that more people in India own mobile phones than have assess to a proper toilet! That gives some perspective!
We and Ian hope that, with the support of Bishop and Diocese, Virgin Airlines might take up the children's project as one of their official charities. Hopefully the other contacts we have made on our journey can be used in similar ways. Even though we can't solve all of India's social problems, at least we can help to improve a few lives!
　
　
　

　

DELHI TWO

2010-02-28T02:39:00.000-08:00

Pictures: Presentation of Prayer Book

Grand vestry (get building, Roy!)

Congregation at tea in cathedral garden

Cart of dyes for Holi festival

Tuc-tuc race - well, not really, just normal traffic

Had a really good day today. Early start to English service in the Cathedral - taxi actually found it first time as we now know it is near the Mughal Gardens. At 8.25am the 8.30 service looked thinly attended, but as with all the others the congregation grew in the first 10 minutes of so, and there was actually a congregation of around 300. The service was a mix of old and new, and was choral. The congregation seemed keener on the newer hymns than A & M! The second hymn was 'Great is Thy Faithfulness' and I thought of Joan Pritchard and the little point of a finger as she always said, 'All I have needed...' The sermon was very good indeed, and delivered with humour and reality.

Tea was served in the garden afterwards - again by the men - and we chatted with people, even one lady who, when told we were from Bangor Diocese, said 'Oh, in Wales!' First one, I think, that we've met.

We learned such a lot about CNI andDelhi Diocese. We spent ages there, including a long chat with the Senior Presbyter (Dean) who had marvellous English and was very interested in the way we do things. He was really taken by the idea of a bilingual prayer book and thought he would raise the idea! Must send him one to see. He also presented me with a CNI prayer book, which delighted me. One of things I love in their book is the absolution, which says ..'God who forgives those who forgive each other.....' As we've said before, travel broadens the liturgy! The Bishop was also at the service, but dashed off afterwards as he has just become a new grandfather.

The Cathedral has three languages, English, Hindi and Tamil, all with separate services - at least, for now! There are a lot of Tamils in Delhi, and the diocese supports a leper children's home in Tamil Nadu, having a grand annual fete which raises large amounts for the home. I've brought back details! As with all our other contacts, there was so much more than can go in a blog post.

Monday is a holiday called Holi. This is a Hindu festival - a bit new-moon-fertility-rite thing, slightly frowned on by some but popular everywhere. The main ritual is the chucking of coloured dyes on everyone. These dyes, in powder form, are sold from carts in the streets. It all promises to be very messy! Took tuc-tuc back to hotel- given up being scared in traffic now - and are still trying to contact the Delhi Brotherhood and children's project. Apparently Fr Ian Weatherall is in hospital, which explains contact problems, but we have had other numbers from the Dean. Here's hoping!

2010-02-27T05:54:00.000-08:00

Pictures: Lotus Temple (Bahai)

Revival!

Cathedral Church of the Redemption

Wonderful sweet peas in Cathedral garden

Boy and big monkey employed to scare off the pest monkeys!

DELHI

Made it to Delhi - a little ahead of schedule, but no bad thing as it would have been worse to miss the plane home. Found the hotel and spirits fell a bit. The area was none too salubrious, and the hotel lobby didn't inspire confidence. Our room is on 4th floor up a rattly lift and is such a surprise. A really lovely room with balcony (never mind the outlook!) and bathroom with tub - heaven! The staff are a bit persistent about trips etc, no doubt arranged at double the going rate, but are quite courteous so long as you don't mind waiting for things. Anything you remind them of, the answer is, 'Just coming..' The guy who looks after the rooms on this top floor takes it all very personally ('You are my guests, I look after') and wants you to check and pronounce yourself satisfied when he has cleaned the room. I confess I always said men couldn't make beds, but watching this guy, I have to admit some can!!

Delhi is just as filthy and monstrous as we remember from a fleeting visit with a tour group. It has some lovely parts, but they seem so much at odds with what else you see. Lots of people sleep in the street and many more do very menial jobs for a pittance just to keep body and soul together. The traffic is terrifying, the smog is pretty heavy and the rubbish in the streets is horrendous. Add the touts and scams to all this and Delhi isn't a place to linger. We did a quick dash round some of the sights (yes, the driver tried to take us to his uncle/brother/relative's shops!) and enjoyed the Red Fort and Humayan's Tomb. Visited the Bahai Lotus Temple, loved the gardens and the building is quite something, but found it somehow smug and self-satisfied. Shame!

Tried to contact Delhi Brotherhood to visit. Ian flies in stuff for street children to them and I am in email contact with them, so we wanted to meet them, but were surprised to get no reply to emails and telephone calls. So we bravely went looking. After much misdirection we found the cathedral, and there was a revival going on in the schoolroom next door. Explains where everyone is. Lots of people, much singing and dancing and clapping (see picture) and we were made very welcome. There was the usual massive enthusiasm and people of varying ethnic origins and languages joined in together without hesitation. The cathedral is in the posh part of Delhi, but doesn't seem to suffer from ex-pat syndrome (you know, photo of the Queen behind the altar..) The people we met were friendly, down- to- earth and everyone seemed to be involved in the worship and maintenance in some way. One unusual problem they have is there are too many monkeys in the grounds and they wreck the garden, so a boy with a big monkey is employed daily to keep the monkeys off the flowers etc! (see picture) Arranged to be at Cathedral tomorrow to meet people and learn more.

2010-02-24T04:56:00.000-08:00

Pictures:

N ot washing - prayer flags!

The tree at the end of the universe - 500ft drop after the tree!

Main road to Darjeeling!

Tibetan knitter

Tea garden, but not as we know it...
DARJEELING - is it our cup of tea?
Quite a day! Taxi to airport, good timing, pleasant check-in, nice airport. Plane came in, but no-one seemed in any hurry. Began to worry as our connecting flight in Delhi had only a half hour gap. Boarded half an hour late, so mentioned to the flight attendant that we should have a connecting flight. She took the onward tickets to 'show pilot' then gve them back. Resigned to missing plane.... Otherwise Jet Airlines pretty impressive, plenty of legroom and lovely staff. Arrived in Delhi just after our plane was due to take off. But ... ground staff waiting, sent us posh bus of our own, and said would try to get our luggage, but if not would send it on tomorrow. Settle for that - obviously only one flight a day! And then two baggage handlers appeared with our cases, slung them on the bus and off we went straight to the waiting aircraft. Two more baggage handlers met the bus, took the cases to load, we boarded and the plane took off! Amazing! There was a quick stop in a place we'd never heard of, and during that short stop a flight attendant came and asked if we would like food. Yes!! He brought us boxes with lovely chicken sandwiches, chocolate brownies and drinks for the princely sum of £2.50 each, and it was delicious. Pretty good service eh? And the plane made up the time! l Very quick baggage collection, taxi arranged by hotel waiting for us for the 100k journey to Darjeeling.
An interesting journey! Mad traffic, nothing new there. Then we began to climb! Hairpin bends, massively potholed narrow road, sheer drops, no barrier, narrow train track weaving across road, much oncoming traffic, often large and very insistent. Stopped at about 5000 feet at cafe with terrific hot chocolate, and massive drop right below! Onwards and upwards. The most terrifying ride ever, took about 4 hours, climbed to about 7000 feet, and here we are in Darjeeling. We stopped worryng part way up - just hoped to survive!
Darjeeling isn't beautiful, though it might have been once. It is crowded and grubby, but looks as if it might be interesting to explore tomorrow. However, the hotel actually starts on the 4th floor, up steep marble steps. Our room is at the top, another two steep flights, no lift. Also the air is thinner here! Felt very sorry for the lads who carried the luggage! Actually felt pretty sorry for myself too! The room is very nice, timbered walls, carpets, little wetroom bathroom, even a little TV. But those stairs!!! When I phoned the man said he could find us a room tonight and we could choose a better one tonorrow. This is fine - but I might never come out! He sent tea up, and said that as the restaurant is on the ground floor (6 flights down!) we coud order room service if we want. We want! Now waiting... There is a little lounge with smoky log fire one flight down, but can't be bothered just now! However, all should be well as Dave has ordered dinner and extra pillows and had a chat with Tibetan owner and we will move to a suite (!?)in their other property tomorrow. Of course it might not be wonderful but it sounds fine, just a bit further from the town, but having seen the town, that ain't a problem. So, we are not downhearted - and we have had our first glimpse of Kanchenjunga! Rather hazy today, but hopefully all will appear. Another adventure!
Few minutes later - they just brought us hot water bottles!
DAY TWO
Well, it hasn't got any better! Hard beds, lots of noise outside all night, little sleep. Nice breakfast though. We had a wander round this morning as we waited to move, and in the sun Darjeeling didn't look quite so bad. The people at the first hotel were really lovely, but the stairs were horrendous and once a day was more than enough. So, towards midday we went off in a taxi to 'Hawk's Nest Luxury Suites'. Mmmm! We do have a bedroom and a sitting room plus wetroom bathroom, but there are absolutely no amenities, and it is up a horrendous track. Only consolation is that, unlike stairs, you can get a taxi up a track! The TV is rubbish, there is no internet, and it is bigger than the last place but otherwise less, not more, deluxe. Also it is freezing cold! Went back to explore town this afternoon, and guess we've seen it now. OK for a quick visit, but very scruffy and dirty with all but the square full of horrendous roaring Landrovers in convoy. Final insult, it is cloudy and the Himalayas are not visible - Kanchenjunga should be right in front of us, but....
We asked for a fire tonight (at a cost) and are still waiting. Problem is how to arrange to escape, as mobiles only work on text and there is no STD here, so booking flights and hotels is difficult until we can get to the town tomorrow. Wish I'd braved those stairs now!! Probably all seems much worse because we are so tired after everything! Darjeeling was not the best idea we ever had!
Fire and dinner eventually came, so things a bit brighter, but still very cold. Gave up and went to bed early........
DAY THREE
Decided not to linger, so had jeep (and driver) to look around then take us down to Siliguri to catch a flight to Delhi tomorrow. All was redeemed when we had a Tibetan driver who took us to see tHe Japanese temple and the Peace Pagoda, complete with chanting monks who rise and open the temple at 4am. Wonderful spot! We had coffee on the roof terrace of a scruffy but nice little cafe and the mist had lifted a bit, so we got glimpses of the Kanchenjunga massif, but obviously we aren't going to see the full monty. Sad. Our lovely driver then then took us up a horrendous narrow little concrete track to a Tibetan Refugee Centre. Here we saw people earning a living by simple and lovely handicrafts. Old ladies were spinning, weaving, carpet making and knitting, there was carpentry and craft work and there was a small area (compared to the big plantations) of tea growing. There was also a photo gallery with the Tibetan story - made us quite angry with China! I didn't know China had a quarter of its missiles on Tibetan soil, as well as other simiar hardware, and large troop numbers. No wonder they don't want to let Tibet go! Our driver was Tibetan and, at the age of three, was carried across by his father, travelling by night and lyng low by day, through
Bhutan and eventually into West Bengal and Darjeeling.
After a long visit, many photographs and a fair bit of shopping, we left and set off back down the hairpin road to Siliguri. Actually, it seemed OK, maybe we are getting used to hanging on and hoping for the best - the driver obviously expected to get home tonight, so.....
Found a real hotel in Siliguri for the night - seems to have the features hotels normally have - so we settled in to a late lunch of fish and chips and beer. Heaven! So, all ended well. Off to Delhi tomorrow.

2010-02-21T04:55:00.001-08:00

Riding up to Amber

Observatory

Lunch - 'Golden Peacock'

Palace of the Winds

Amber Fort

JAIPUR

The Amber Fort at Jaipur is one of my favourite places in the world, and I did hope Jaipur would not disappoint this time! Although Jaipur itself is pretty scruffy and rather smelly, and a bit pestiferous to tourists, it still has so much that is wonderful. And no, it didn't disappoint.

We took a day off and had a car and driver and went to see all we could. Terrific. Started with the Amber Palace Fort, as you have to go in the morning if you want to ride up on an elephant. The lake below the fort, where we saw elephants bathing last time, is competely dry and the rain isn't due for a couple of months. The magnificent floating gardens are surrounded by mud and look very sad. The fort is such an atmospheric place. Its situation is amazing, with views to hgh peaks, down to the valley, across to a floating palace (which does have water in the lake - I think the Maharajah demands it!), across to a wall resembling the Great Wall of China and to a higher defence fort above. The buildings of the palace/fort are so beautiful, and the hall of mirrors is amazing. A place to spend time.

We then went to Fort Jaighar, the high defence fort, less glamorous, but an amazing situation. This has the largest wheeled gun in the world, built for 4 elephants to manoever, and only fired once in test, range 22 miles - more of a deterrent than anything, we thought.

Down to the City Palace, one of the homes of the Maharajah. Surrounded by rubbish and squalor, goats. cows and pigs in amongst the horrendous traffic, the palace is quite beautiful and quite a bit is open to tourists, including a very elegant little cafe where we had lunch. We ordered beer, a rare treat, with our lunch, choosing 'Golden Peacock' over the rather fizzy 'Kingfisher, and it was plonked on the table very quickly as the waiter said, 'Just a minute get glasses but is last bottle!' Tasted wonderful! There was a snake charmer in the street as we left - gave him a wide berth! - and also bought a peacock feather fan.

Found a little gem of a temple and gardens with fountains, absolute magic, little known. Then visited the Rajmandir cinema. Had to buy tickets though film long started, but went in to see the amazing, totally unspoiled, huge1920's art deco foyer. Wow! Cold drinks at alcove table. Never seen anything like this place.

Tried to find supermarket for bits and pieces, but there doesn't seem to be any such thing, just hundreds of tiny shops and apart from tourist shops it's hard to work out what to get where and most are none too salubrious.

Should have mentioned the hotel. Run by two brothers who are Buddhist, it is a masterpiece of hand painting, all walls and ceilings intricately decorated. (see small sample in picture) There is a rooftop restaurant, also all painted, and it is very clean and nice. It is, however, rather agressively vegetarian - no eggs even - and definitely no alcohol. There is a little hotel round the corner with more variety and even Kingfisher beer, but the restaurant is up four flights of very steep, narrow marble stairs, very scary, especially when a waiter dashes past with a sizzling dish! From our roof we have seen some fine fireworks displays from wedding venues.

We have worried so much about reaching Delhi in time for the flight home that we have got a bit ahead of ourselves. We had hoped, though not expected, to make it to Darjeeling, so we will fly up there to the high Himalayas tomorrow. Exciting! Just had to buy some cold weather shoes!

2010-02-21T04:50:00.000-08:00

Organist & Choir Mistress

ALL SAINTS

Soon after arival in Jaipur we found an Anglican church about 10 mnutes' walk away. The notice board proudly proclaimed it to be 'Ex -Church of England'! Made contact with Presbyter J.C. Joseph, and learned a lot about the Church of North India. Like CSI it is a fairly recent amalgamation, and is very sensitive to the fact that there are different traditions combined, so a great effort is made to include all and to alienate none. Despite the notice board, they are very proud to be Anglican. Lay people play a large part in worship and in social life - for example, during Lent there is Bible Study every day, varying times, led by people in their own homes, known as 'Cottage Study'. There is lots of lay participation in worship, and lay members with a Bishop's licence may also preach. Will try to go to Communion on Sunday - a treat as it's English - and meet more people.

At first sight of the church you could be in the UK. Built in 1873, it is a stone church with spire and all the 'usual trimmings'. It has a garden, which is lovely and which is quite a sight seen from the main porch through the church and out of the facing door - open, of course to let some air in! The only real giveaway that you are not in the UK is a series of fans from the ceiling. I t is most beautifully kept and in excellent order - unlike most things in Jaipur! The church also runs a large school, and is preparing to build a mother and toddler unit on the land next door. Again, lots of social involvement.

Went to the service 9am Sunday. As elsewhere people trickled in and out, but there was a big congregation and great enthusiasm. The prayer book is a modern version of 1662 - even the Lord's Prayer is modern - and the hymns are A & M. We began with 'Oh Jesus I have Promised ' which I found very nostalgic and really missed Llanfaelog! The sermon for Lent 1 was excellent - a couple of good ideas to hang on to! - and he preached from James, which many of you know is a favourite of mine. Lovely choir too.

After the service there was tea (made by the men) in the courtyard. Presbyter Joseph said we must stay for tea 'It's the Anglican tradition, you know!' Everyone was friendly and they were obviously happy to be together, which was lovely. Very nostalgic!

2010-02-19T20:04:00.001-08:00

MARKET GOA
After catching up on church of South India, we are ready to move on and it will be Church of North India from now on. Both had similar foundations, but have developed with differences so their attitudes to ministry and social projects will not be the same in detail.
Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.
MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

MARKET GOA

Before going to the airport we decided to risk a 'dash' to the weekly flea market at Anjuna, reached by boat. (Local notice: FLEE MARKET BY BOAT) We had no idea it was an hour and a half trip - worried could we get back for the plane - but decided to look around then find a taxi back as we would no way have time to come back by boat. It was a lovely sail, quite choppy largely due to other craft and a lot of passengers were glad to get off! However, we thoroughly enjoyed it the unexpected highlight being several appearances by leaping dolphins!

Jumping off the boat into muddy sea, we scrambled up the beach to find the most enormous market. This place is possibly the last hippie stronghold. It smells strongly of incense and other associated things, and all the hippie garments you ever wanted are here, as well as leather goods, decorative items, incense (of course!) and even magic tricks. The guy on the stall was an excellent magician - kept Dave amused for ages. It's big and crowded, but good-humoured and great fun. There are beach shacks for refreshment, and we saw a guy with a super plate of bacon and eggs, but had no time to linger. Oooh! We were sorry to leave and wished we could fill a container with assorted stuff, but had to go, got lost, eventually found taxi who got us back to Candolim in time to get taxi to airport.

Despite initial misgivngs, we enjoyed our brief visit to Goa, and were so grateful to the Sea Shell Inn, which found us a late room and showed us such kindness. Probably the cheapest place we've stayed, about £12.50 for 2, for room /little chalet with ensuite wet-room and little verandah. No a/c or trimmings, but clean and comfortable, good big fan, and simple tea/coffee & toast breakfast included! There is a wonderful restaurant attached and on the last night, after a superb meal, we were given complimentary brandies as a goodbye. When we left the next day everyone came to see us off. Amazing! Last shot of Goa is sea & sky from the plane.

2010-02-18T05:55:00.000-08:00

Roy, get to work building - my new pulpit!

How about the chandelier?

GOA CHURCHES

Old Goa, the capital, was the first centre for Christianity. Christianity was introduced by the Franciscans, and given later impetus by Francis Xavier when he founded the Jesuit mission in 1542. The Inquisition began soon after and all faiths other than Catholicism were banned. Consequently Hindus who had converted took Portugese names to be on the safe side and there are lots of Indian families with Portugese names still. The mortal remains of Francis Xavier are in a crystal coffin in the Cathdral of the Bom Jesus (Good Jesus), see notice in photo. A little further on a notice tells us that there is a monstrance in the sacristy (closed) that contains 'a finger of Francis Xavier which fell off in 1854.'

The Portugese built amazing churches and cathedrals all close together in the city, but little now remains of the city of Old Goa except those churches and cathedrals. There is the Cathedral of the Bom Jesus, the Se Cathedral and the Cathedral of Francis of Assisi, others having now become 'departments' of one kind and another. By 1843 the port at Old Goa had silted up, and the population had been decimated by malaria and cholera, so the capital shifted to Panjim. The magnificent churches that remain are in landscaped gardens and some of the buildings house museums, archeolgical exhibitions and art galleries. They are wonderful to visit, but are not part of a living environment.

2010-02-16T06:49:00.000-08:00

Luxury resort?

Blackpool?

Mmmm

Path to our new, clean abode!

GOA???

Well, I suppose we knew we had to make a big mistake somewhere along the line - and today was it! We were having problems synchronising flights to Goa, taxi to Bangalore airport, and transfers to a hotel. The hotel was suggested by the Thomas Cook rep in Mysore who seemed very helpful. Fine, taxi came - almost on time. Maybe should have worried it wasn't a/c for a '3 hour' trip, but thought 'Open windows will do...' Long nightmare ride through horrendous traffic, often stifling in jams, took 4 hours or more. Nice airport, easy boarding etc. SpiceJet is a budget airline, but OK, and arrived on time in Goa. Taxi was waiting with our name on a board - always fancied that - and away we went for the '45 minute journey' to a 'really nice hotel near Panjim.' Well over an hour later, long past Panjim, we came to a place called Calagute, and turned off down a grim lane lined with rubbish. 'Keep hoping' we said. No, no point, the hotel was a dim and dusty 'luxury resort' that was the most depressing place you ever saw. Everything you touched left your hand dirty, and there was a little pool that was so grey you couldn't see the bottom. The whole place smelled - don't ask! - and basically just would not do, even trying very hard to be stoical! No phone to phone out, mobiles didn't work there, no internet.... Worst of all for the first time, because we had used an agent, we had booked and paid for 3 nights in advance.

Finally texted Martin, (eldest son)who stayed in Candolim ten years ago, and asked where he stayed. He replied fast with name and number. We phoned; no rooms. However, a rather downmarket associated place had a room. Apologised to very nice staff, (people tend to be nice, even if place isn't. I think it's that 'different kind of clean' I've mentioned before) ,called taxi and left. (Same taxi as from airport.) Eventually found new place - restaurant in front looked OK, so saw room. Clean, basic but quite comfortable, nice staff - no a/c but at least the fan works. Booked one night only - will see what tomorrow brings. Decent meal, unexciting but OK. VERY large gin (2 to be honest) - thank goodness this place isn't dry!

Trying hard not to be a travel snob but the place seems to be full of British holiday makers who don't seem to know this is India - just hot Blackpool Gather that the place has changed somewhat in last few years, and is lots of 'fish 'n chips' and 'real pub'. Also been huge influx of Russian visitors, all menus etc are 'in English and Russian'.. Lots of vodka advertised too. No longer keen to spend a lot of time in Goa.

Ah well, tomorrow is another day! We'll find the churches etc and make use of a short stay!

2010-02-14T07:46:00.001-08:00

MYSORE 2
Mysore seems to be the hub of what's going on in Karnataka diocese. They are a very structured diocese, and do a lot ecumenically. They have projects of all kinds, and the star one is a youth programme run from a mobile unit that goes to villages, staffed mainly by youngsters. Again, lay ministry features prominently - they couldn't possibly so so much otherwise! I haven't met Rev. Peter Soars yet, so not sure of ministry structure in St. Barnabas' but they do seem to have a woman on the staff. Will find out more later!
Went on bus up Chamundi Hill late morning. Scary bus ride - big drops and high speeds - but found panoramic views and market at top. Great fun! Also Ganesh temple, so wonderful smells from flowers of garland makers. Huge queues for temple, and we saw wonderful Brahma bull with cow and youngster just wandering around the market. Lots to see, and mostly not very pestiferous traders! Oh dear, what a shame we have to consider weight for baggage allowance - but perhaps just as well!
Got off bus on way back at the Zoo. Fantastic - as good as a safari park. Animals beautifully kept in large areas, and mostly in big groups. It was 3.5 kilometers round in great heat, but well worth it. Star for us was a family of elephants. We watched them for ages. Fortunately there were drinks stands (unusual in parks etc) because we drank gallons! Altogether a great day.
Move on tomorrow, this time to next state, which is Goa. Staying near Panjim, the capital. Understand that central Goa is 'heavily Christian' and has some pretty ancient churches - big Portugese influence. Will see. Been from Tamil Nadu state, which is huge, through Kerala, also huge, through Karnataka which is much smaller, on into Goa, also huge. We fly with Spice Jet from Bangalore tomorrow. After Goa we will need longer flight to head north if we want to make Delhi in time.

2010-02-13T04:02:00.000-08:00

SPECIAL POST FOR TREVOR & MARY

Happy anniversary!

This was meant to be a movie, but couldn't load it, so hope still picture OK. Have a good one! Luv, M&D

2010-02-13T03:36:00.000-08:00

MYSORE - Shiva's birthday!
Tried to make contact with various churches here, but found them either closed or celebrating Harvest /New Year. Yes, I know they celebrate New Year with Christmas and with Pongal in Tamil Nadu, but they also celebrate it with Harvest, a sort of new beginning. The churches are lavishly decorated and the celebrations go on for a week. Some of the canopies hung in the roofing are a sight to behold - some church wardens must have no Health and Safety qualms! No pictures of these decorations yet, but hopefully we will be able to take some when there is no service in progress. I know we tend to have large congregations at Harvest, but some of these are truly enormous! One of the churches is a 'Wesley Cathedral', which isn't something we've come across before - a sort of Methodist- with- trimmings arrangement. I hope to get more information on patterns of ministry and projects from people at St. Barnabas, a CSI church not far from here. There is also a rather amazing RC church, St. Philomena's, which I still need to get access to. All the churches seem to have social programmes, and CSI and its lay-ministry schemes is very advanced. Lots of theories as to why such a traditional church managed to pioneer so much lay ministry - am working on it!
One of the reasons some churches were closed yesterday was that it was a kind of 'bank holiday'. It was the celebration of Shiva's birthday, and the celebrations were huge. Lots of loud music, people sitting in the street stringing flower garlands, wonderful smell of roses, jasmine and marigolds, and lots of cows with coloured fur wandering around amid the motor bikes, autos, bullock carts etc.
The Maharajah's Palace here is quite something, and at weekends is lit for an hour or so in the evenings with 100,000 bulbs. As it was Shiva's birthday it was lit for an extra time yesterday evening, so we wandered around and - oh my goodness! - it was one of the most amazing sights we've ever seen! Never seen it in one of those 'so-many things to see before you die' books, but it should be in them all. I will attach as many photos as Blogger will let me, but whatever it looks like, it was much more! It was an absolutely magic evening, walked our legs off, then staggered back to the hotel and decided it was definitely a gin fizz experience!
Been back to see the Palace in daylight, including the interior and it is really fabulous. Hard to pick out the best bits - possibly a wonderful stained-glass peacock dome (made in Glasgow!) - or the Gold Throne room, or the carvings, or the solid silver doors or...well the list is endless. We haven't been to many great tourist places here, as that wasn't the object of the exercise, but this was an unexpected and fantastic bonus. Everyone should see it!
MYSORE - Shiva's birthday!
Tried to make contact with various churches here, but found them either closed or celebrating Harvest /New Year. Yes, I know they celebrate New Year with Christmas and with Pongal in Tamil Nadu, but they also celebrate it with Harvest, a sort of new beginning. The churches are lavishly decorated and the celebrations go on for a week. Some of the canopies hung in the roofing are a sight to behold - some church wardens must have no Health and Safety qualms! No pictures of these decorations yet, but hopefully we will be able to take some when there is no service in progress. I know we tend to have large congregations at Harvest, but some of these are truly enormous! One of the churches is a 'Wesley Cathedral', which isn't something we've come across before - a sort of Methodist- with- trimmings arrangement. I hope to get more information on patterns of ministry and projects from people at St. Barnabas, a CSI church not far from here. There is also a rather amazing RC church, St. Philomena's, which I still need to get access to. All the churches seem to have social programmes, and CSI and its lay-ministry schemes is very advanced. Lots of theories as to why such a traditional church managed to pioneer so much lay ministry - am working on it!
One of the reasons some churches were closed yesterday was that it was a kind of 'bank holiday'. It was the celebration of Shiva's birthday, and the celebrations were huge. Lots of loud music, people sitting in the street stringing flower garlands, wonderful smell of roses, jasmine and marigolds, and lots of cows with coloured fur wandering around amid the motor bikes, autos, bullock carts etc.
The Maharajah's Palace here is quite something, and at weekends is lit for an hour or so in the evenings with 100,000 bulbs. As it was Shiva's birthday it was lit for an extra time yesterday evening, so we wandered around and - oh my goodness! - it was one of the most amazing sights we've ever seen! Never seen it in one of those 'so-many things to see before you die' books, but it should be in them all. I will attach as many photos as Blogger will let me, but whatever it looks like, it was much more! It was an absolutely magic evening, walked our legs off, then staggered back to the hotel and decided it was definitely a gin fizz experience!
Been back to see the Palace in daylight, including the interior and it is really fabulous. Hard to pick out the best bits - possibly a wonderful stained-glass peacock dome (made in Glasgow!) - or the Gold Throne room, or the carvings, or the solid silver doors or...well the list is endless. We haven't been to many great tourist places here, as that wasn't the object of the exercise, but this was an unexpected and fantastic bonus. Everyone should see it!

2010-02-12T02:53:00.000-08:00

NIGHT TRAIN......
Well, I can't say it was the worst night of my life, but.....
Text to Sophie, ' May I register with someone that I hate sleepers and am divorcing your father.'
3 minutes later, 'PS A mouse just ran into my foot!'
We had booked through a ticket office with little English - and the 'assistance' of a taxi driver - and the 1st Class A/C turned out to be 3rd Class A/C. This meant stacked berths 3 high, with no more than 2 ft between the two stacks in the compartment, plus a couple of berths at one side! There was no height either, once the middle bunk-thing was let down, no-one could sit up. Worst of all? We were apparently booked for midddle and top! The other people were really nice - just too many and too near! The mouse kept running around, and there were mozzies despite the A/C, but we chatted as if we were enjoying it.... About 10.30pm there was a move to settle to bunks, and a lovely man who was travelling with his daughter organised everyone in Hindi, then said that I must have the bottom bunk, Dave a middle and a young man on his own would go in the top. Profuse thanks!
We each had a blanket (nice, clean) and a paper bag with a pair of sheets in. Imagine my amazement when the sheets were beautifully, crisply laundered, and smelled of lavender! Apart from that, it was like being put away on a hard, narrow shelf for the night - in the dark, of course. Another problem: we were the only ones in the compartment going to Mysore; everyone else was going on to Bangalore. We would arrive in the dark about 4.30am - how would we know we were there? Long night.......some great mozzie bites by the end. Tried not to think what the mouse was up to. About 3.30am, with hushed whispering, we put up the middle bunk so we could sit upright and watch. In the end the guard came round and said in a most wonderful growl, 'Mysore, Mysore.' Relief! We reckoned he got the job because of the perfect voice for alerting people without waking others! We dragged our luggage as quietly as possible past the recumbent forms, and negotiated the massive drop down to the platform. Shan't be doing that again!
Luggage piled into tuc-tuc, swayed to hotel with Dave perched very precariously beside driver. Pulled up in dark gutter with rough sleepers. No, apparently they were staff - the doorman was awakened by the tuc-tuc horn and leaped up and let us in. It all looked a bit daunting, but we were shown to our 'super-deluxe' room, which was fine, even has a tub! Swig of coke, biscuits with spread cheese and tomatoes (nothing since lunch) and we crashed. Notice in the room was the first thing we saw - photo attached.
All looks much better in daylight, room very comfortable, staff lovely. After breakfast will venture forth and see who we can contact.

2010-02-10T02:09:00.000-08:00

TURNING INLAND
Last day at the beach. So far we have followed the Malabar coast, but next step is inland to Mysore. After that we might need a couple of internal flights if we are to make it to Delhi for the flight home. Tonight we board our first overnight train, something Dave has wanted to do and I will hope for the best, so that will be a new experience to add to the list. We arrive in Mysore around 4am, so hope we can find the hotel and that their assurance of 'No problem' arriving that time is the truth!
It is strange to think we left the UK in snow, and that it is still cold and possibly wet. Here the temperature is climbing; not sure exactly what, but well in the 30s, and getting a wee bit more humid. Hard to think that the garden will still be bare at home, unless the daffodils have made it. Here in the gardens there are clematis , magnolia stellata and multiflora, anthurium, kinds of busy lizzie and geranium, strelitzia ,purple waterlilies and even agapanthus in flower under the coconut palms.
It has been a lovely gentle break, views of tatty rattan chairs awaiting occupancy at breakfast, beach to walk and birds to watch in the afternoon, sunset to observe before shower and dinner in the evening - such a busy time! Onwards to something more demanding now.....
TURNING INLAND
Last day at the beach. So far we have followed the Malabar coast, but next step is inland to Mysore. After that we might need a couple of internal flights if we are to make it to Delhi for the flight home. Tonight we board our first overnight train, something Dave has wanted to do and I will hope for the best, so that will be a new experience to add to the list. We arrive in Mysore around 4am, so hope we can find the hotel and that their assurance of 'No problem' arriving that time is the truth!
It is strange to think we left the UK in snow, and that it is still cold and possibly wet. Here the temperature is climbing; not sure exactly what, but well in the 30s, and getting a wee bit more humid. Hard to think that the garden will still be bare at home, unless the daffodils have made it. Here in the gardens there are clematis , magnolia stellata and multiflora, anthurium, kinds of busy lizzie and geranium, strelitzia ,purple waterlilies and even agapanthus in flower under the coconut palms.
It has been a lovely gentle break, views of tatty rattan chairs awaiting occupancy at breakfast, beach to walk and birds to watch in the afternoon, sunset to observe before shower and dinner in the evening - such a busy time! Onwards to something more demanding now.....

2010-02-09T04:20:00.000-08:00

ECUMENICAL SUNDAY.
Tried to book tickets out of here for Monday, but the desk here is hopeless. The woman says yes to everything, then nothing happens. So, took taxi to Mangalore (no, not Bangalore!) about 10 kilometers away. Turned out to be the only town in India that is mainly closed on Sundays! We did find a supermarket that was open, and managed to buy a fw useful basics.
However, we visited St. Aloysius' Chapel which is part of a college and is the most amazing place. Painted 1908 - 1910 by a Fr Moscheno, it is absolutely covered with frescoes and oil painted panels, of a pretty good quality. There was a nativity that I really fell in love with - iinside the manger cave looking out. Alas, no photography allowed and no postcards or anything available either. A real secret gem!
From St. Aloysius to the Sri Gokarna temple. Wow! It was the beginning of a week long harvest festival, and we watched the decorating outside the main hall, but no pictures allowed there. However, in between services (I think) people urged us to go inside and look ('Go, go, go!') and it was truly fantastic. Everyone was so kind too, trying to make sure we saw everything. The rest of the temple complex was amazing too, and we were allowed pictures there, so a few attached.
On the way back we finally visited the local Mosque in Ullal - couldn't go right inside, but welcome in courtyard and to take pctures - green one attached.
Found ticket agent in Mangalore and - oh disaster!- found we can't get a train out until Wednesday evening! That will be our first sleeper - overnight to Mysore, 'the city of sandalwood.' Ah well, just have to grin and bear the palm-fringed beach and sea-shore restaurant for a day or two more - mustn't grumble! It's important to watch the birds on the beach too, don't you think?
ECUMENICAL SUNDAY.
Tried to book tickets out of here for Monday, but the desk here is hopeless. The woman says yes to everything, then nothing happens. So, took taxi to Mangalore (no, not Bangalore!) about 10 kilometers away. Turned out to be the only town in India that is mainly closed on Sundays! We did find a supermarket that was open, and managed to buy a fw useful basics.
However, we visited St. Aloysius' Chapel which is part of a college and is the most amazing place. Painted 1908 - 1910 by a Fr Moscheno, it is absolutely covered with frescoes and oil painted panels, of a pretty good quality. There was a nativity that I really fell in love with - iinside the manger cave looking out. Alas, no photography allowed and no postcards or anything available either. A real secret gem!
From St. Aloysius to the Sri Gokarna temple. Wow! It was the beginning of a week long harvest festival, and we watched the decorating outside the main hall, but no pictures allowed there. However, in between services (I think) people urged us to go inside and look ('Go, go, go!') and it was truly fantastic. Everyone was so kind too, trying to make sure we saw everything. The rest of the temple complex was amazing too, and we were allowed pictures there, so a few attached.
On the way back we finally visited the local Mosque in Ullal - couldn't go right inside, but welcome in courtyard and to take pctures - green one attached.
Found ticket agent in Mangalore and - oh disaster!- found we can't get a train out until Wednesday evening! That will be our first sleeper - overnight to Mysore, 'the city of sandalwood.' Ah well, just have to grin and bear the palm-fringed beach and sea-shore restaurant for a day or two more - mustn't grumble! It's important to watch the birds on the beach too, don't you think?
ECUMENICAL SUNDAY.
Tried to book tickets out of here for Monday, but the desk here is hopeless. The woman says yes to everything, then nothing happens. So, took taxi to Mangalore (no, not Bangalore!) about 10 kilometers away. Turned out to be the only town in India that is mainly closed on Sundays! We did find a supermarket that was open, and managed to buy a fw useful basics.
However, we visited St. Aloysius' Chapel which is part of a college and is the most amazing place. Painted 1908 - 1910 by a Fr Moscheno, it is absolutely covered with frescoes and oil painted panels, of a pretty good quality. There was a nativity that I really fell in love with - iinside the manger cave looking out. Alas, no photography allowed and no postcards or anything available either. A real secret gem!
From St. Aloysius to the Sri Gokarna temple. Wow! It was the beginning of a week long harvest festival, and we watched the decorating outside the main hall, but no pictures allowed there. However, in between services (I think) people urged us to go inside and look ('Go, go, go!') and it was truly fantastic. Everyone was so kind too, trying to make sure we saw everything. The rest of the temple complex was amazing too, and we were allowed pictures there, so a few attached.
On the way back we finally visited the local Mosque in Ullal - couldn't go right inside, but welcome in courtyard and to take pctures - green one attached.
Found ticket agent in Mangalore and - oh disaster!- found we can't get a train out until Wednesday evening! That will be our first sleeper - overnight to Mysore, 'the city of sandalwood.' Ah well, just have to grin and bear the palm-fringed beach and sea-shore restaurant for a day or two more - mustn't grumble! It's important to watch the birds on the beach too, don't you think?

2010-02-06T04:50:00.000-08:00

SUMMER SANDS BEACH RESORT
Arrived here late afternoon after five and a half hours of bumping along non-stop in a quite nice a/c Mercedes A. Decision was, weekend at the beach and also cover a few kilometers (250) north. Felt we needed a breather after the cities, especially after a nearly lost day of just wishing to die after too much heat, spice or something!
Chose this place from Rough Guide and hoped for the best. Turned into a lane with trees and bungalows, just like a scene from 1960's British suburbs! Bungalows with a stone-clad panel and porthole window, each a different colour (often very bright, ours is lime green). Room large with a/c unit, wet-room type bathroom with very elegant glass wash basin. No bath - didn't expect one - but hot shower. Verandah too. Not bad.
Unpacked a bit then walked down lane. 2 minutes - beach! Lovely palm-fringed beach, splashing sea, courtyard restaurant overlooks it. Getting better! Sea great to dabble but too much undertow for real swimming, but there is a lovely pool. Trips can be arranged, and there is a little town quite near, so should be fine for weekend. Also sent laundry - treat to have everything clean. Meals here are enormous and not very expensive. I've always rather despised ordering 'just one between us' but honestly, it''s loads. One thing I like here in general, is breakfast is never described as 'included'. It's 'complimentary'. Subtle difference, but nice. Here, first there is a plate of freshly cut fruit, pineapple, mango and the sweetest water melon, to dabble while you wait. Then toast, butter, e-number jam arrives. Then eggs to your order. Then, like a dessert, cornflakes, milk and tea. Interesting. All very nice.
Jake has complained that there are not enough pictures of us with our blog. Sorry Jake, will try to get plenty while we're here and send a well-illustrated episode. There will be loads more pictures when we come home - not always easy to upload them, especially if there is no broad band - and even bb can be debatable!

Moving on???

2010-02-04T07:32:00.001-08:00

Thought you might like to see an Indian Drug Merchant!

MOVING ON - possibly...
Last day in Calicut. Booked a place by the beach in Karnataka for the weekend.
It is the centenary of the Theological College here, and also of one of the other colleges, so festivities are planned. A 'marquee' is being erected in the square, see picture. It seems to be made of wood and string, as far as we can see, and there are are piles of thatch panels, presumably the roof. Should be quite a structure!
We went to the station to book a train to Mangalore. What a nightmare! Throngs everywhere, and when you eventually reach the head of a queue, people reach round you to shove notes at the clerk. Eventually he told us we needed to go upstairs. Couldn't even find any stairs! Spotted a Tourist hut in the corner. The guy seemed pleased to have customers, even when we only wanted to know where the stairs were! Much amused, he showed us.
Upstairs was a booking office of sorts, with loads of seats while you waited. Looked a long wait. Couldn't work out the system at all, so eventually gave up and decided we would try a Thomas Cook office (yes, really) and see if they booked train tickets. Amazingly, yes! Oh oh - all trains full and waiting list full - waiting list, eh? Possibly air-conditioned bus? Not running! Fly? One hour flight, but not direct so takes about 5 hours and costs @ £250 - no seats anyway! Mmmm. Calicut is definitely running out of charm, don't want to be here all weekend, seen everything, except Moppila Mosques, twice! Young man in Thomas Cook suggested car. Arranged a decent car through 'a friend' and we will be driven. It's 250 kilometers, and, as he said, 'our roads are not good.' Traffic is scary, but we've got to get out of here! Ten in the morning sees the start of a new adventure!
We did try to see the ancient Moppila mosques. Rough Guide said any 'auto wallah' will know where they are. Nobody told our auto wallah! He had no English, but tried so hard, consulted other auto wallahs, took us to two modern mosques and insisted we went in - upstairs in my case -then wrote in Hindi what he thought we were looking for. We found the bazaar (wonderful brass) and wandered round a bit, then gave up on the Moppilas. Sorry! We also passed an enormous area, a field really, strung with acres of washing lines. Think we found the town laundry. All looked wonderfully clean.
Forgot to say, a couple of days ago we posted a parcel home, to get rid of a bit of weight and a few things we now know we won't want. The bookshop organises parcels, which have to be packed a certain way in boxes, then the box is sewn into white cotton for posting. Should be very evocative when it arrives - eventually!
This has been a strange few days. This is not a foreign tourist place and we have only seen two or three other Europeans and most people don't speak English. However, they have been unfailingly kind and helpful, with no attempts to take advantage. The city is big and heavingly busy, quite dirty and often smelly, full of contrasts and terrifying traffic, and has been a really nteresting stay. The 'benison of hot water' and a real bath tub have been heaven and will be remembered!

2010-02-03T08:45:00.000-08:00

Pictures: Dean; Interior: First glimpse St. Ann's

CATHEDRAL AND DEAN
Caught up with some of the things we had expected to find in Calicut! Walked down street, braving traffic that comes to get you. Even in the atrium of the hotel the odd motor bike zooms up behind you, never mind on the pavement-less street. Actually tthere are some pavements, but they are so broken and higgledy-piggledy that they're scary, and there's stagnant greasy water below. Also, unless there's the sort of kerb where you need a ladder, motor bikes are likely to cut round the pavement as well! Anyway, we boldly went, and saw a white steeple, which turned out to be the Cathedral - the Anglican one. We went in to look around and the people about were lovely, putting lights on, leading us up to see the organ loft and the organ which was a gift some time ago from St. Aiden's in Chelmsford, letting us take photos, a rare privilege.
I ventured to mention being a priest, and they understood and were delighted, passing word around. One man led us towards the sanctuary, so I slipped off my shoes.This caused great amusement, as he was taking us outside to the priest's house! The 'garden' was a bit scary - wouldn't like to investigate the undergrowth, and don't think I'll be looking for an advert for that living! However, the priest turned out to be the equivalent of our Dean, and was welcoming and charming. He told us about the foundation of the church (1842) and the beginning of the Church of South India in 1947. The church/cathedral was dedicated to St. Ann, but when some Lutheran workers moved in, they couldn't cope with her, as she wasn't a saint to them, so the name was 'lost' and still doesn't appear on the notice board, though he said they are now quite proud of her!
Presbyter & Chairman (Dean) Jose Peter was actually Dick Emery, if anyone remembers 'the vicar' - Dave says I'm unkind - but he was really lovely and we learned a lot. He also turned out to be an avid stamp collector, and we promised to send stamps - Peter, if you're reading this, we'll need your advice! Presbyter Peter was quite chuffed that I was a priest, and when we asked to take his photo, he called his wife and said they would like one with 'the lady priest' in the middle. There are, as yet, no women priests in Kerala, but there are some in the Church of South India. He said locally they need Christ to get people to understand that in there is neither Jew nor Greek, male nor female. Can't argue with that!
Eventually we carried on and found the town square, a bit scrubby, but with trees and a 'tank', a massive lake built by some Maharajah for water shortages and times of drought. The park was full in the late afternoon, young couples and teenagers mostly. teenagers and kids all wanted tostr talk to us, which was lovely. Here you can talk to kids in the street without being arrested!

Calicut 2

2010-02-02T07:28:00.000-08:00

Well, Calicut proves OK! Very busy business city, not a lot of shopping for non-Indians, but had good look round and met very nice and interesting bookseller in Christian and self-improvement bookshop. Terrific range of stuff - from text books to glow-in-the-dark Virgins - but really good conversation. Photo attached. He also gave us a commemorative coin for the local saint, Saint Alphonsa - must look up info on her!

Went to Beach Hotel for lunch (Somerset Maugham) and were a bit disappointed. Supposed to have all this atmosphere, but really rather boring, and not on the beach at all. Across the road, and rather dingy. Confess we had onion soup and fish and chips, which was strange but good. Restaurant isn't licensed, so no G & T! Lovely walk on gorgeous beach after; paddled along - lovely warm sea - and came back in tuc-tuc rather damp and sandy. Had intended to stay at Beach Hotel couple of nights after here, but decided not to bother. Will search out church South India and also view Moppila mosques tomorrow, then move on. Hot baths still wonderful, and staff here are lovely, so helpful. Worst thing is crossing road; often tempted to take taxi!

Oh apologies to next door - not Jain temple - Christian church - hopefully photo!

Calicut?

2010-02-01T07:22:00.000-08:00

CALICUT..???
Well, we got the train after a little panic when the taxi was late. Fortunately the Junction station was a bit nearer than the main one, so it didn't take as long through the morning rush hour traffic. The station was busy, but the announcements were good - when you could hear them. Every tiime a train came in it disgorged so many people that the noise was horrendous and the announcements disappeared. However, the 'porter' who carried our two heavy cases on his head, including over a footbridge very like the one at Crewe, obviously knew what he was doing as he deposited them, and us, at exactly the spot where our compartment would come in. We had recliner seats for the four hour or so journey, and they were very comfortable. At regular intervals sellers of tea, coffee (very hot) various Indian dishes, crisps, chocolate, bananas came through the train. A huge treat was hot coffee and Cadbury's chocolate! A guy in front of us disappeared whenever the guard appeared - suspect no a/c ticket!
The train got in a bit early, which was nearly a disaster as we weren't looking out for the station. Suddenly spotted, in small print, 'Kozhadkode'. the original name for Calicut, so hasty departure, and getting luggage off these monster-trains is a performance!
Looked heavingly busy, but got taxi and reached the Hyson Heritage Hotel. We were going along a typical, intensely busy, town street, when the taxi turned across the pavement (pavement?) and drove into a large glassy hotel atrium. It looked very swish, except for the unfinished bits. Anyway, in we went and eagerly anticipated the Lonely Planet promise of baths. Not a bad room, but no bath. Phoned reception, asked if you have a room with bath? No, no bar here, Madam.' (Most hotels don't serve alcohol) 'No, not bar, bath.' ''Balcony madam?' 'Forget it, we'll come down.' Dave nobly went down and explained. We were given a key to inspect a bigger room on the 5th floor. Very nice, a/c, bright and light, large, quite glossy - plus bath!! I showed my delight. 'Tub, madam?' Mmmm....
So, here we are in a city hotel, somewhat cheaper than a travelodge, wonderful hot water, super a/c, lovely bed, a fridge (unheard of luxury) and even Wi-fi, except the server is down! Snags? Well, the hotel isn't actually finished, the view is a tatty building site and what looks like a festering mozzie breeding pool, and the bathroom smells strongly of garlic. Still, we are rather enjoying all this luxury!
After blissful hot bath and sandwich lunch, we ventured out. Heaving main road, terrifying to cross, and no information to be had. This is where Vasco de Gama landed in 1450something. This is where the Church of South India was started by Swiss missionaries four or so centuries later. This is where Somerset Maugham had his G & T by the beach, this is where the Moppila Muslims have mosques going back to 11th Century - and where is it all? We will have to search the Internet - when there's service! From what we can see, except for a candle fire hazard little Jain temple next door, none of them would have bothered now! Still, tomorrow is another day! Oh joy, reception just called to say internet is now possible and he can 'find us a one hour card'. I didn't quite bite his hand off, but will be great to have access on our own computer and hopefully at reasonable speed. It was always hit and miss, at best slow, in the Internet cafe in Cochin - cheap, though.
CALICUT..???
Well, we got the train after a little panic when the taxi was late. Fortunately the Junction station was a bit nearer than the main one, so it didn't take as long through the morning rush hour traffic. The station was busy, but the announcements were good - when you could hear them. Every tiime a train came in it disgorged so many people that the noise was horrendous and the announcements disappeared. However, the 'porter' who carried our two heavy cases on his head, including over a footbridge very like the one at Crewe, obviously knew what he was doing as he deposited them, and us, at exactly the spot where our compartment would come in. We had recliner seats for the four hour or so journey, and they were very comfortable. At regular intervals sellers of tea, coffee (very hot) various Indian dishes, crisps, chocolate, bananas came through the train. A huge treat was hot coffee and Cadbury's chocolate! A guy in front of us disappeared whenever the guard appeared - suspect no a/c ticket!
The train got in a bit early, which was nearly a disaster as we weren't looking out for the station. Suddenly spotted, in small print, 'Kozhadkode'. the original name for Calicut, so hasty departure, and getting luggage off these monster-trains is a performance!
Looked heavingly busy, but got taxi and reached the Hyson Heritage Hotel. We were going along a typical, intensely busy, town street, when the taxi turned across the pavement (pavement?) and drove into a large glassy hotel atrium. It looked very swish, except for the unfinished bits. Anyway, in we went and eagerly anticipated the Lonely Planet promise of baths. Not a bad room, but no bath. Phoned reception, asked if you have a room with bath? No, no bar here, Madam.' (Most hotels don't serve alcohol) 'No, not bar, bath.' ''Balcony madam?' 'Forget it, we'll come down.' Dave nobly went down and explained. We were given a key to inspect a bigger room on the 5th floor. Very nice, a/c, bright and light, large, quite glossy - plus bath!! I showed my delight. 'Tub, madam?' Mmmm....
So, here we are in a city hotel, somewhat cheaper than a travelodge, wonderful hot water, super a/c, lovely bed, a fridge (unheard of luxury) and even Wi-fi, except the server is down! Snags? Well, the hotel isn't actually finished, the view is a tatty building site and what looks like a festering mozzie breeding pool, and the bathroom smells strongly of garlic. Still, we are rather enjoying all this luxury!
After blissful hot bath and sandwich lunch, we ventured out. Heaving main road, terrifying to cross, and no information to be had. This is where Vasco de Gama landed in 1450something. This is where the Church of South India was started by Swiss missionaries four or so centuries later. This is where Somerset Maugham had his G & T by the beach, this is where the Moppila Muslims have mosques going back to 11th Century - and where is it all? We will have to search the Internet - when there's service! From what we can see, except for a candle fire hazard little Jain temple next door, none of them would have bothered now! Still, tomorrow is another day! Oh joy, reception just called to say internet is now possible and he can 'find us a one hour card'. I didn't quite bite his hand off, but will be great to have access on our own computer and hopefully at reasonable speed. It was always hit and miss, at best slow, in the Internet cafe in Cochin - cheap, though.
CALICUT..???
Well, we got the train after a little panic when the taxi was late. Fortunately the Junction station was a bit nearer than the main one, so it didn't take as long through the morning rush hour traffic. The station was busy, but the announcements were good - when you could hear them. Every tiime a train came in it disgorged so many people that the noise was horrendous and the announcements disappeared. However, the 'porter' who carried our two heavy cases on his head, including over a footbridge very like the one at Crewe, obviously knew what he was doing as he deposited them, and us, at exactly the spot where our compartment would come in. We had recliner seats for the four hour or so journey, and they were very comfortable. At regular intervals sellers of tea, coffee (very hot) various Indian dishes, crisps, chocolate, bananas came through the train. A huge treat was hot coffee and Cadbury's chocolate! A guy in front of us disappeared whenever the guard appeared - suspect no a/c ticket!
The train got in a bit early, which was nearly a disaster as we weren't looking out for the station. Suddenly spotted, in small print, 'Kozhadkode'. the original name for Calicut, so hasty departure, and getting luggage off these monster-trains is a performance!
Looked heavingly busy, but got taxi and reached the Hyson Heritage Hotel. We were going along a typical, intensely busy, town street, when the taxi turned across the pavement (pavement?) and drove into a large glassy hotel atrium. It looked very swish, except for the unfinished bits. Anyway, in we went and eagerly anticipated the Lonely Planet promise of baths. Not a bad room, but no bath. Phoned reception, asked if you have a room with bath? No, no bar here, Madam.' (Most hotels don't serve alcohol) 'No, not bar, bath.' ''Balcony madam?' 'Forget it, we'll come down.' Dave nobly went down and explained. We were given a key to inspect a bigger room on the 5th floor. Very nice, a/c, bright and light, large, quite glossy - plus bath!! I showed my delight. 'Tub, madam?' Mmmm....
So, here we are in a city hotel, somewhat cheaper than a travelodge, wonderful hot water, super a/c, lovely bed, a fridge (unheard of luxury) and even Wi-fi, except the server is down! Snags? Well, the hotel isn't actually finished, the view is a tatty building site and what looks like a festering mozzie breeding pool, and the bathroom smells strongly of garlic. Still, we are rather enjoying all this luxury!
After blissful hot bath and sandwich lunch, we ventured out. Heaving main road, terrifying to cross, and no information to be had. This is where Vasco de Gama landed in 1450something. This is where the Church of South India was started by Swiss missionaries four or so centuries later. This is where Somerset Maugham had his G & T by the beach, this is where the Moppila Muslims have mosques going back to 11th Century - and where is it all? We will have to search the Internet - when there's service! From what we can see, except for a candle fire hazard little Jain temple next door, none of them would have bothered now! Still, tomorrow is another day! Oh joy, reception just called to say internet is now possible and he can 'find us a one hour card'. I didn't quite bite his hand off, but will be great to have access on our own computer and hopefully at reasonable speed. It was always hit and miss, at best slow, in the Internet cafe in Cochin - cheap, though.
CALICUT..???
Well, we got the train after a little panic when the taxi was late. Fortunately the Junction station was a bit nearer than the main one, so it didn't take as long through the morning rush hour traffic. The station was busy, but the announcements were good - when you could hear them. Every tiime a train came in it disgorged so many people that the noise was horrendous and the announcements disappeared. However, the 'porter' who carried our two heavy cases on his head, including over a footbridge very like the one at Crewe, obviously knew what he was doing as he deposited them, and us, at exactly the spot where our compartment would come in. We had recliner seats for the four hour or so journey, and they were very comfortable. At regular intervals sellers of tea, coffee (very hot) various Indian dishes, crisps, chocolate, bananas came through the train. A huge treat was hot coffee and Cadbury's chocolate! A guy in front of us disappeared whenever the guard appeared - suspect no a/c ticket!
The train got in a bit early, which was nearly a disaster as we weren't looking out for the station. Suddenly spotted, in small print, 'Kozhadkode'. the original name for Calicut, so hasty departure, and getting luggage off these monster-trains is a performance!
Looked heavingly busy, but got taxi and reached the Hyson Heritage Hotel. We were going along a typical, intensely busy, town street, when the taxi turned across the pavement (pavement?) and drove into a large glassy hotel atrium. It looked very swish, except for the unfinished bits. Anyway, in we went and eagerly anticipated the Lonely Planet promise of baths. Not a bad room, but no bath. Phoned reception, asked if you have a room with bath? No, no bar here, Madam.' (Most hotels don't serve alcohol) 'No, not bar, bath.' ''Balcony madam?' 'Forget it, we'll come down.' Dave nobly went down and explained. We were given a key to inspect a bigger room on the 5th floor. Very nice, a/c, bright and light, large, quite glossy - plus bath!! I showed my delight. 'Tub, madam?' Mmmm....
So, here we are in a city hotel, somewhat cheaper than a travelodge, wonderful hot water, super a/c, lovely bed, a fridge (unheard of luxury) and even Wi-fi, except the server is down! Snags? Well, the hotel isn't actually finished, the view is a tatty building site and what looks like a festering mozzie breeding pool, and the bathroom smells strongly of garlic. Still, we are rather enjoying all this luxury!
After blissful hot bath and sandwich lunch, we ventured out. Heaving main road, terrifying to cross, and no information to be had. This is where Vasco de Gama landed in 1450something. This is where the Church of South India was started by Swiss missionaries four or so centuries later. This is where Somerset Maugham had his G & T by the beach, this is where the Moppila Muslims have mosques going back to 11th Century - and where is it all? We will have to search the Internet - when there's service! From what we can see, except for a candle fire hazard little Jain temple next door, none of them would have bothered now! Still, tomorrow is another day! Oh joy, reception just called to say internet is now possible and he can 'find us a one hour card'. I didn't quite bite his hand off, but will be great to have access on our own computer and hopefully at reasonable speed. It was always hit and miss, at best slow, in the Internet cafe in Cochin - cheap, though. (Pictures might follow if we find anything to film....)

Pictures for the last 2 blogs

2010-02-01T07:09:00.000-08:00

Pictures for
Cochin Conversations and 'Travel broadens the Liturgy'
1 & 2: Bus (self-evident!) & St. Francis Cathedral.
3,4 & 5 Kids' day at the beach.

2010-01-31T06:41:00.000-08:00

'TRAVEL BROADENS THE LITURGY..'

CHURCH IN COCHIN -St. Maelog's Day

Found an 8am English Communion in St. Francis Church. Thought the congregation bit small for this area, but they trickled in during the first ten minutes or so of the service, including choir members who straggled in. They were actually a very good choir when they finally all arrived and the congregation was pretty large.

The service was lovely, really quite moving, not least due to the earnest enthusiasm. It was a version of 1662, and the hymns were good old revivalist ones. I admit to a smile when the offertory hymn was, 'I surrender all to Jesus' - though it was obvious there was some sacrificial giving going on, and, in fairness, the theme of the day's readings was the cost of disciplleship.

A few lovely bits struck me particularly and gave rise to quote of the week from Dave, 'Travel broadens the liturgy!'

Particularly nice was the way of sharing the peace with a large congregation and another queuing to get in for the next service. The priest said the sentence for the peace, then solemnly shared peace with two servers, or maybe wardens, who then shared the peace with those on the ends of the rows, who shared it along the rows. It was lovely, warm and dignified.

No swine flu chalice problems here. Although the church - cathedral really -is very poor and plain, it is swept and clean, but the chalice and a little ladle are gold. The priest dips the ladle and pours it, with no contact whatsoever, into each mouth. I think I was being a bit mimsy with the mouth-opening bit, so he gently but very firmly put a napkinned hand under my chin and pushed my head back! Got to admit, it worked and no risk of contamination!

The intercessions were the standard 1662, but there were separate prayers for the sick and needy of the parish, and after these the choir sang a short, lovely little thing about 'We offer them to God.' Liked that!

As seems to be the pattern here, men and women go for communion together. If you visit this church during the week, you are asked to remove your shoes at the door, and no-one is allowed in the sanctuary. On Sunday I realised people were keeping shoes on, but then we removed them to go up for communion, which seemed right. Still appreciating the purchase of easy on and off shoes!

The sermon was, as usual, declaimed loudly through many speakers, but was actually very good. There were a few Europeans present, not many, but a lot seemed to appear looking through the windows towards the end. Turns out that Sunday is cruise ship day in Cochin, so coachloads came, but no-one had organised to get them here in time for the service, which they obviously regretted

Since coming back from church we have seen coachload after coachload of Cunard groups soming through, many stopping at the hotel opposite for lunch. Made us think how often we have been part of such a group - and what a lot they're missing!

Onwards.....

This will probably be the last bulletin from Cochin as we move on tomorrow. Had planned to go to Ooty, but there are railway problems there. Then thought of Goa, but flights are outrageously expensive and trains booked, so we have decided to go a bit further north to Calicut. We tried to book in at the hotel where Somerset Maugham stayed, but sadly full. However, we booked the next best thing and, believe it or not, it has actual baths! Heaven- well hope so, unless it's cold water!

Ought to say, we did discover hot water here yesterday after accidentally leaving it running about 10 minutes! What have we been missing?

Also pushed the boat out last night and went for a meal at The Old Courtyard. Posh, te? The actual courtyard is a bit tatty, in need of a coat or two of paint, but it had fairy lights and table lamps and live Carnatic music. The food was amazing! Simple, but wow! Example: tiger prawns in tempura (and you ain't never seen them this big!) with a light soy dip, chicken supreme with saffron, and tiny baby veg (Isauce to die for!) then pineapple flambe. Even proper coffee and good black tea! And all for less than £12 each! Mind you, that is a fabulous amount to so many here. After the simple fare of the south that was some meal!

All the buses here have names, mostly in the various religious groups. Watching from our balcony this morning, we came to the conclusion that Infant Jesus doesn't work Sundays! Previously we have seen 'Infant Jesus', 'Baby Jesus', 'Christ', 'Christ the King' and 'Mary Martha'.

We have enjoyed Cochin and have marvellous memories - and photos!

2010-01-31T06:36:00.000-08:00

COCHIN CONVERSATIONS.

Cochin is more 'advanced' in its church ways than the deep south, but the idea of women priests hasn't percolated yet. However, women feature in the lay ministry programmes, and the Women's Fellowship, integrated into the MU about 6/7 years ago (the one that took membership over 3 million) flourishes here and is involved in children's programmes and various organisational and lay ministerial offices. In church men and women sit together here, very progressive, and women read and serve. Projects, both Anglican and Roman Catholic, focus a great deal on childlren, as it is accepted that educating a child to a qualification or a trade is the most effective way of raising a whole family from the absolute poverty.

Most, if not all, of the activities of the Anglican church are organised by lay people, and social activities mainly by women. The parish picnic, for example, is organised by Mrs Dora and leaves at 5.30AM - cost 200 rupees. (About £3) This is an all-day event to somewhere 'quite far.' Harvest Festival here will be on 14th February and the guest for the day will be the Bishop. There are well-attended day retreats with men, sometimes lay, as principal leaders, but women take part in leading.

Most interesting was a conversation with some lovely Buddhists from Bury St. Edmunds (yes, really!) who were visiting the village where they buy supplies for their Fairtrade shop. Their ambition is to buy a woodland and teach people to manage it ecologically and encourage the locals to do genuine local carving and crafts at a fair price which our Buddhists would then import and sell at reasonable prices themselves. They were a bit disillusioned with the Fairtrade Foundation, as many village communities and cooperatives can't afford to join and the criteria are too easy for the big groups to access. We talked on the shore by the Chinese nets over a juice, and realised how long we had been there when we found it had gone quite dark on us. Altogether a super time. I loved his simple remark, 'I try to reflect what I want to receive from others.' What more can we say?!

Cochin

2010-01-29T21:37:00.000-08:00

COCHIN Photos: Chinese nets, notice. Bedroom!

Finally found Ballard Bungalow. This is a small hotel owned by the diocese - how's that for an idea to pay our way? It is a somewhat restored Dutch or Portugese mansion, restored by the diocese, with, I think, 5 bedroooms, all large and airy. I t must have been a stunning house in its heyday - wouldn't mind one of my own to do up - what fun! The staff are lovely, most helpful. Our room, though a bit worn, like everything in India, is real 'departed glory' stuff, which I love. Picture hopefully attached. Cochin is lovely - like everywhere else you have to overlook the rubbish etc. There is a great system to clear the streets - brush most of the litter and leaves into little piles in the gutter, and set fire to them. Early evening smells of smoke! Sadly, still no hot water. However, excellent and cheap laundry system, so all our clothes are now clean - such luxury. Laundry goes off in an auto (tuc-tuc) in a morning and comes back in the evening.

We were directed to the museum and Bishop's house, and found we were with the Roman Catholics! No problem, all very friendly and we learned about their charities and projects and how they go about things. They have a very practical approach that makes sure charity goes where needed, no middle men. Long conversation with young man who had left the seminary as he wanted to do hands on charity.

Found the Anglicans - definitely the poor relations - but no-one who spoke English. They found it very odd that Dave was not the priest! However, contact made to be followed up, and we have seen some of their famous lay ministry in action. As before, basically the priest covers a wide area, with Catechists doing the day-to-day services and lay people doing everything else. Seems to work very well and to be totally accepted. Congregations are sizeable and enthusiastic.

Fort Cochin is a drive or ferry ride away from the main city of Ernakulum, which is desperately busy and the traffic is crazy. Fort Cochin is much gentler, and there are wonderful and famous Chinese Nets along the shore for fishing. Seafood is serious stuff here, and there are a couple of restaurants advertising 'You buy, we cook.'

The heat is tremendous here, well in the 30s and we gave in and slobbed around for a day or so, before taking a breath and investigating further

2010-01-26T22:20:00.000-08:00

FIRST TRAIN JOURNEY

Breakfast on time again - same method. !

All packed and ready for next adventure. Early to station just in case, plus want to take picture which will hopefully accompany this blog.

Trains are incredibly long, and our compartment is 1a, so is right at far end. Kanykumari is the end of the line, so it comes in and then a new engine is added at what was the back, and out it goes again. We reckon we walked the first mile of our 350 mile trip just to reach the compartment. It wasn't exactly posh, but clean and swept and a/c, so quite comfortable. We were on our own for the first 250 or so miles, which was nice. A man came round with an urn of coffee, which was nice, and we were equipped with fruit, so we settled in to watch the countryside go by. Wonderful views of the magnificent Western Ghats. Wonderful scenery, rice field, coconut groves, pineapple groves (are pineapples in groves?) and villages of all kinds. Thought the journey would seem long but it didn't.

New experience: lunch came, rice and sauces with veg and fish. No 'implements' so we had to go native and eat with our fingers.- on a moving train too! Actually the trains are very steady, no rattling about like our puny diesels. Dave had already done a fair bit of eating with fingers; fitting in, he called it. Note to our kids, I will retrain him before he influences your children! After a hesitant start, managed very well, no mess at all!

Tea came round in the afternoon, smelt a bit odd, but tried it and found it to be cinnamon tea, hot and delicious.

The guard, very smart in navy blazer and white trousers, stomped up and down throughout the journey to check we were all where we should be. There is a notice stuck on the outside of the compartment with names of the passengers and, yes, ages! Ah well! Stations aren't always clearly signed, so as 5.30pm approached we began to ge a bit anxious, as we had luggage to drag off. The train was running 20 minutes late, so we spent an anxious little while trying to anticipate when to make a move. In the end it was fine, Ernakulum, the station for Cochin, was huge and terrifyingly busy, but at least it was obvious we were there At end of train, so another mile trek back to station, we were somewhere in far countryside. Dark by now. Found taxi, crammed luggage in, confidently said, Ballard 'Bungalow please.' Blank. Repeat. 'Is in Fort Cochin?' Yes. Off we shot into traffic which had to be seen to be believed: rush hour of course. Nightmare ride for hour or so, getting worried as we had said be there about 6pm. Please be a room! Tried to phone, but all lines busy.

Finally got to Fort Cochin, where is hotel? Drove round a bit and miraculously spotted it - driver delighted. Turned in off scruffy street, and it looked lovely and welcoming. Young man on desk looked puzzled. 'You booked?' Oh oh! After a little wait he came back smiling. Paid off taxi - all of 450 rupees, about £9, for all that time. Oh, Rough Guide, why didn't say Fort Cochin is so far from the station? Anyway, we know now, and it looks OK, so we'll see what tomorrow brings.....

2010-01-26T22:07:00.001-08:00

END OF THE WORLD?

Pictures: Sunrise from our balcony, Kanyakumari
Ghandi Memorial

Well, not the end of the world, but the end of India. We are staying in Kanukamari, the very end point of India, where the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean meet. It's a big place of Hindu pilgrimage, and as it's weekend and also Indian Independence Day, the place is heavingly busy.

The hotel is 'interesting'!! We waited an hour and a half for breakfast yesterday. Dave's scrambled eggs came - we were desperate for something other than dal and chappatis - then an hour later, my omelette. When we asked about the toast, he said something like, 'Finished, is none.' We thought we would try room service later, and ordered something simple an hour before end of lunch service. An hour and five minutes later a little man came and said, 'Is finished!' We did manage dinner in the courtyard in the evening, with only about an hour's wait. Encouraged, I wrote our breakfast order and gave it to reception. 'Oh, yes he said, and gave me the b it of paper back, but I insisted he took it and told him of the previous problem. Not sure he understood, but thanked him a lot.

To our amazement, at ten to eight (ordered for eight) breakfast turned up! Cold omelettes, granted, toast that seemed to have had a quick blowtorch over its outside surface, already sparcely spread with jam, granted, but it was breakfast and thqt unimaginable luxury, on time!

We were up - well, in dressing gowns - soon after six as our balcony overlooks 'Sunrise Point' where veryone gathers to watch the sun come up, and today was clearer than of late. About 6am they begin singing, mixture of Christian, Hindu and no doubt others, and cheered the arrival of the sun when it burst through. Beautiful!

This point is where the tsunami hit and there are still signs of wreckage among the boats in the fishing village (below our window). The rebuild of the church here is almost finished and the fish market has been rebuilt and is very posh, especially in view of its surroundings. 1000 people died here, most of them tourists for elsewhere in India.

We have booked train tickets to Cochin tomorrow, an seven hour trip, so that should be an adventure. Booking is a thing in itself. Go to station (will get picture tomorrow, it's like a mauve wedding cake!) and queue to be told which queue. Then you ask about the train and they ask what number? Don't know. Where to? Cochin. Fill a form in - includes sex and age, home address, colour of underwear, you know the kind of thing. Then he tells you the train nujmber. Fill in number, date, time and class. Sorry, no Class 1 A/C Monday. Couldn't face it all again, so settled for Class 2 A/C. People in next room said it's OK. And it is only a short journey... From here you can do the longest train journey in India, 86 hours!

One thing we can't work out is why hotels, even homes, don't have solar water heating. Answer seems to be that they don't need hot water here!? Cold showers and hair washing have become the norm. Admittedly, apart from cooking pots and clothes, not much seems to get washed. A place of immense contrasts, incredible squalor and incredible beauty, amazing indifference and amazing hospitality. Lots to learn, we're sure!

Water!!!!!

2010-01-23T07:59:00.000-08:00

WATER!!!!!!

Woke up to find no water. Then saw parts of water pump being carried across the compound on sacking. Oh dear! Johnson said it had broken 'again' and was being sent on the school bus to Valioor for repair. All day we had no water - imagine trying to wash all of you in alcohol gel! - and we hoped it would be repaired in the same day. It was, and came back on the school bus, but still awaiting the electrician to install it. We feel incredibly dirty in all this heat!

Had chat with Johnson, and obviously this is a recurring problem, so we said that the parish would buy them a new one, a proper submersible pump with proper control unit. Much rejoicing! So, apart from treats for the kids and the trip for the staff, that is what we are doing with the parish money. I hope everyone is happy with that - it will make a huge difference. Oh, and we gave a donation to the church too, as it serves the Grail and the village.

We took an auto (short for auto-rickshaw) into Valioor to get the money, but couldn't draw it all at once. The bank mamager came to see us and said we could collect it in two goes, and invited us into his office for tea and chat. (The tea was actually good!) We realised that we were invited to give him kudos - not something that often happens often!

We also wanted to buy envelopes to leave for staff and some pocket money for kids. How to find them????? Serendipity here. We met the pastor, who found a stationers, not like any you've ev er seen before, and we bought our envelopes. He then showed us the market which we would have overlooked, it just looked like a back alley with falling down huts, but it was really interesting, and the fruit and veg were amazineg. We wished we could cook ourselves. We gave the pastor a lift in our auto back to his bike by the Chinnamalpuram turning off the main road. Forgot to say before, coming back from Valioor, the scariest bit is turning right at the gap in the central reservation and doing about 50 yards down the worng side of the dual carriageway to the village road!

Water on next morning, but for how long? Hope new pump comes soon!

2010-01-21T06:33:00.000-08:00

Picture: Cooking Ladies in their finery

Had intended to take the staff out for a meal in the evenng as we did when I was here before, but John decided we would go during the day and go out for lunch. Set off after the kids went to school, 9 to 9.30 he said. This morning Johnson said we would set off at 10am, and in the end it was almost 11, but we never knew why; just sat on the verandah and waited. John's children were coming, the little girl came to tell us before 9, but in the end John himself didn't come, just wife, kids, Johnson and four cooking ladies. The ladies were sensational in their best saris. A small bus, known as a van round here, bounced us merrily to Kanyakamari. It was a good trip with great views from the high vehicle. It has been hazy whilst we've been here with hardly any views of the Western Ghats, but nearer the coast it was clearer and their huge craggy outlines came into view - magnificent.

We got out of the bus near the market and the sea, and first had to visit the 'point' of India and paddle where the three seas meet - Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean. Felt lovely and warm - there were people swimming but Christy said not good idea, dirty! By the time we'd walked back the few yards to the market our trouser hems were dry again - it's very hot.

Birthday girls

The ladies wished to do 'purchasing' said Johnson, so off we went round the very hot and crowded market. We bought a load of hair ornaments for the girls, and some super-bouncy balls for the younger boys, but drew a blank for the big boys. Perhaps money for them?

Felt a bit sorry for Johnson and the cooking ladies, as the 'purchasing' was very much centred around the kids, and the little girl wanted everything she saw and got it, with Johnson being despatched back to get things for her while everyone else waited. How different from the kids in the hostel. We've never seen them whinge or complain!

Went for lunch in the 'multi-cuisine' restaurant of the Mahindi Hotel, and were delighted that the ladies ordered happily and thoroughly enjoyed a 3-course lunch. The soups were fantastic - must copy! The main courses were also good, and desert was ice cream - or ice cream. We got back about 4pm - a good day.

We were having difficulties booking trains for our next move, as you can only book through main stations, and online booking is an indecipherable maze. Trains are very full too, so you need to keep going to the station to find a 'vacancy'. So, while we were in Kanykamari we booked ourselves into the hotel that owned the restaurant, and will stay there for the weekend, which will be a nice respite and also give us chance to get a train booking and access it easily - we hope!

Played with kids when got back, then went to prayers and Dave tried to record the kids singing without them knowing. It's a very short recording, but the sound is quite good. Three girls, twins and another, had birthdays today. They were gorgeous in pink tunics over flowered pink trousers, with glitter. We sang a rather odd version of Happy Birthday, then the birthday girls handed out sweets to everyone - that is the birthday treat! And they loved it!!

Indoors tonight as outside rather insecty! Sorry, not most exciting blog post!

2010-01-19T06:53:00.000-08:00

Getting ready.....

Losing track of days....

Not sure what's going on in the world; kids see films, but we have neither TV or radio, except for intermittant and scratchy World Service, which always fades away before we can get the gist. Mind you, it sprang to life for a few minutes to give us the cricket score! Very Raj!

Today the weather has been like the very best of a British summer; very warm but with a nice breeze. I had my left hand (palm) henna painted by Dana Silvi, a lovely giirl who is in her first year of an engineering degree. She also helps with the girls' hostel while there is no 'lady warden'. Another girl brought me a rose which is now in my hair - no-one seems to find it unusual!

During the 'siesta hour' while the kids watch television, we went for a walk. We passed lots of people on foot and bikes, who all greeted us. We went to 'the bend in the road' passing coconut groves, rice fields and little banana gardens. We also saw egrets, ibis and huge storks (we think).O, and goats and also oxen with painted horns for Pongal. Bit 'mad dogs and Englishmen' but we enjoyed it. Life is so simple here - hard, basic, but wonderfully simple at best. Impossible at worst - the older people are stick-thin and have obviously lived hard lives. Things are improving a bit, but this is such a huge country with a massive population that it takes so l-o-n-g for things to change, even with the best will in the world.

We have ordered cakes for everyone tonight - from Llanfaelog - well, not literally. These will be distributed after prayers. Yesterday we gave letters from the childlren of Pencarnisiog, and gave everyone a Bic pen, so some are busy on replies. Turns out the pens write purple, which they seem to love. Some of the kids had the boxes the pens came in and seemed quite delighted. They were so pleased with such simple things. We would have bought cakes on arrival, but there was a full programme for Pongal, and chunks of sugar cane are tradtional 'sweets' for, that.

John seems more comfortable today too; we just called for a few minutes. I'm never sure of the etiquette of non=clergy visiting - what my Grandma called 'Coming to look at you.' I confess I wouldn't want to be 'looked at'!

2010-01-19T06:43:00.000-08:00

Valioor shopping...

END OF PONGAL

The day after Pongal is still a holiday. Children here are outside so much that it's a holiday treat to be allowed to stay in and watch television.. Endless loud Bollywood drifting by!

We walked round the village and did a lot of smiling. Showed Dave the church and the Pastor appeared and let us in. He is lovely; first parish, just out of theological college and been here 7 months. Very interesting system. The Pastor looks after 13 churches, taking all services except communion, which is once a month when the priest comes. The churches in the bigger villages have MP & EP l... busy young man!!

Not sure if he will eventually be priested - more conversation needed. It is very simple to understand what a Pastor can and can't do. He cannot do anything in the sanctuary, can do all other services. I did wonder if I should offer an extra communion - but thought
I might cause riots, or at least embarrassment with the diocese. Will talk about such things when meeting organisors of huge lay/ministry project. I was asked if I would 'speak or sing' on Sunday. Not surprisingly I chose the former! Having problems with email access at the moment, so forgive me Bishop if I offer your greetings unsolicited!

Briefly, before contact lost, managed to pick up Diocesan website. Congratulations Stella - what will we do without you!? Tried to email you, but access lost...

We are getting quite used to waiting to see what we get for our meals. It's usually very simple, rice, veg and spices and fruit and very good. Spoiled rotten!. However yesterday being a holiday we had meat. I have heard rumours of fish today! Food is quite spicy, not always very hot spicy, and there are what look like privet leaves in everything; a fairly delicate flavour, but a bit chewy if you don't spot them. As well as water that is special for feeble foreigners, we have been supplied with a fizzy bright orange drink - known between oursel ves as ' a shot of e-numbers.' Doesn't taste too bad with gin....

Taking shoes off outside all buildings takes getting used to. You think you're well into it, the, whoops! you're indoors with shoes on! Went by 'auto' (Indian tuc-tuc) to nearest town, Valioor, to buy 'easy-off-and-on' shoes Much better!. Johnson - sub-warden - came with us; i think they think we need a minder - could be right! Bought big oranges, turned out to be giant clementine things - 6 for 30Rs (@40p) - quite delicious. Some shops still closed for Pongal.

Got back to find John (warden) had had an accident on his motor bike and damaged his leg and foot. No permanent damage, but obviously very painful. He goes back to hospital tomorrow and should be fine within a week. So, Johnson is looking after everything and doing a grand job. We told John when we visited today that we had been so impressed with his organisation of Pongal competitions. Everything was just so.

The rumour of fish proved true. A beautiful curry with fluffy rice and those fabulous popadums.

2010-01-19T06:39:00.000-08:00

This is out of order, but we have power......

Pongal 3

The festivities recommenced in the boys' hall with singing, sketches and dancing. This is when we feel truly foreign - when everyone's laughing and we don't get the joke! Lots of good humour, I think some 'turns' were impressions, and no doubt some fine singing f you get your ear in to the tonal scale.The dancing was a mix of eastern elegance and break dancing, some very energetic. At the end (' 11pm - nobody goes to bed early, or gets up later than 6am, more like 5 - except us!) I realised that John was speaking English, then caught my name. Apparently I was presenting the day's prizes. All prizes were stainless steel pots and dishes, given with a formal handshake, a smile and comments they didn't understand but liked anyway. The photos were odd, we think the flickering of the erratic lights did something to the camera.

I've never been a grand prize giver before, and found myself doing it in tatty clothes, all hot and sticky, going on for ever - but loving it!

Schools

2010-01-19T06:27:00.000-08:00

Pictures: Class 7 & School Kitchen

SCHOOLS

Yesterday we visited the local school in the village, where children from 1 to 5 standard go. We were towed along with much excitement at 9 o'clock, but the teacher hadn't arrived, so the kids took us on the grand tour. The school is a low building in disrepair, divided into two for 1 to 3 standard and 4 to5. The school kitchen is an open bit on the end of the school, accessible only from outside, where lunch is made. We were told to come and see the 'garden', and were proudly shown a tiny mudpatch behind the school, which they look after carefully. A few marigolds, some plants from orange pips and something vine-like that we couldn't pronounce were sprouting there.

Teacher arrived at 9.15 - late because the bus was late - and didn't seem to mind finding us there. She might have known we were coming - a very efficient bush telegraph system operates here - and obviously had no worries about the kids misbehaving in her absence. Behaviour here is amazing.

We watched them set up for lessons. This involved spreading mats on the floor, which became work areas. She explained that they are working to a new method in the curriculum (no, it isn't just us!) which is flash cards for the younger ones and exercise books for the older ones. They showed us their English reading books, which had stories like we had in the 50's, but with Indian context. ( Snakes!) Will try to attach pictures.

Today we went in the school bus to Anaikulum where the bit older children go. Squashed together in the bus, it is quite an exciting trip. We saw egrets, ibis, glossy goats, ox carts with oxen with painted horns (for Pongal, possibly) and lots of standing water (mozzies?!). The bus lurched along, as we prayed it wouldn't tip us into any water, goodness knows what lives in there! Anyway we arrived safely and were led excitedly in. We met two lovely girls from England, Maya and Venetia, in their gap year. They were half Indian and were volunteering for a while, staying at King's World Trust.

The headmaster roared up on his motor bike and greeted us warmly. We were taken to his office and shown the progress reports, then taken from class to class. Each 'classroom' is very run down, divided by board partitions, and teaching is very much the 'stand and deliver' method. The kids seem to work hard, and the school is swept and yard brushed conscientiously by the children when they arrive before lessons begin. We invited to assembly - open air prayers - before the classroom visits. A child appeared with with bottles of mango drink (+ straws..) and a packet of biscuits, just for us, while we waited for our auto to take us to King's World.

I met the Director, Mr. Naamani in 2004, and we were warmly welcomed to the palatial establishment. It is very posh, run on the 'Robin Hood' principle. 60% pay, which covers for 40% who can't. Capital costs are from funding, running costs from fees. Trouble is, for the poor kids, it takes them right out of their home environment, so will they ever fit back in?

However, it lovely to see Mr. Naamani again and to have a conversation easy English instead of part or all sign language. We also were brought elegantly served coffee and biscuits. Two treats in one morning! Naamani also helped us unravel the mysteries of the rail timetable, so maybe we will move on after all!

Back to our auto - driver asleep in the back, jumped awake. Took us to Valioor to bank, then found us a pharmacy where we managed to sign for and get stuff to ward off the biters - heaven!

Back here to lunch (on the table 10 minutes, said Christy) then little siesta (very hot today) then attempt to do blog, but power keeps cutting out. Am writing, but whether I will be able to post it up, who knows?

Big day out with staff tomorrow!

2010-01-18T07:08:00.000-08:00

SUNDAY AFTER CHURCH Please note that blogs aren't always in date order, due to access problems. The date shown will be the date of posting it successfully, not necessarily the date of writing! Some older blogs might have pictures added later, or we might just put up a few picture blogs as and when......

Pictures: 'Crocodile' forming to walk to church.

St. James' very British looking church tower.

Church is quite an experience. The service starts at 9am prompt, but people wander in during the next 10 to15 minutes. I think the first 15 minute slot is spent in reading out the collection, with names, from the week before. Don't think that will fly in Llanfaelog!

II had been asked to say something 'before the message' so I was prepared to offer greetings from the Diocese and the parish and thank them for the warm welcome. However, just before the service started, the Catechist came and said he would introduce me, and I had 10 minutes! So, I sent greetings from Bishop and Diocese, Dean and Cathedral, parish and people. Speaking slowly, being translated hesitantly with the Catechist referring to Johnson who was sitting on the step of the doorway nearest the chancel steps, for help with translation, I rambled on about our ways being not the same, our dress not the same, our language not the same, our weather (!) not the same but our God is the same and we are happy to worship together. All that goes on in church is broadcast for miles around from huge speakers on the church tower, so goodness knows what came out in translation! I haven't quite managed to explore the place of women in the church of South India yet, but in Chinnamalpuram it reminds me a bit of what Dr. Samuel Johnson is alleged to have said, 'Women preaching is rather like dogs walking on their hind legs in the street. It's not that they do it well, but that they can do it at all'. They are, however, a good deal politer than the rude Doctor.

The service was Morning Prayer, each section pretty long. Everyone is dressed in their best (still Sunday Best here) women on one side of the church and men on the other. Most people sit on the floor - loads of children, good as gold, even tinies. Only the old, the infirm and visitors who don't fold up as well as the locals, sit on benches at the back. (Guess where we sat!) The singing is quite amazing. Sunday hymns are Sankey & Moody and are accompanied by a somewhat hesitant but enthusiastic harmonium, played by Mr. Kumar, the Grail Trustee. The tunes are recognisable, but the singing is a strange mix of Eastern and Western harmonies We ended, after over an hour and a half, with what I think was 'Praise to the Lord, the Almighty'....... Everything with that enormous enthusiasm. The Catechist preaches, or intones, for long periods at all services. We hear him broadcast over the village at morning and evening prayer- and a few things we haven't worked out yet. I would love to know what he's on about, I think! I don't think I'll invite him as a Harvest Preacher - it would take a weekend!

Came back from church with the crrocodile of kids, cold drinks, lunch. Christy invited us to visit her house in the afternoon, said she would come for us about 3pm. Another social occasion negotiated. Her brother, wife and children were visiting. All very smilley, no English. The eldest of the three boys had a little English and was lovely. The youngest, was a gorgeous child, but terrified of us, screamed the place down! They took him into the bedroom, where he was a bit happier. We got a wave and a smile, but when we responded he screamed again. Ah well, can't win 'em all!

The house was swept and clean, just two rooms, one with four plastic chairs, family pictures and a television. (Posh!) The bedroom was literally that, a tiny room that was entirely filled by a little bed - couldn't even close the door. There is a little outside kitchen (shed) like everywhere else. Kitchens are not in the house - they catch fire too often. In this area there is a different kind of clean than what we're used to. Cooking pots are clean, clothes are clean, everything else is just swept over with a whisk brush. Photos we take tend to sanitize the view, walls are usually peeling and a bit ramshackle and everything pretty run down. Maintenance isn't high on the agenda, survival is the main thing.

We all smiled at each other a lot, and a plate of biscuits appeared followed by two bottles of orange pop with straws. (More E numbers!)Hospitality is so important, and it is hard to accept when you know they can't afford it, but etiquette insists. The rest of the family didn't have anything, just watched us with apparent enjoyment. We knew all about the thing about 'beware of straws, they might be second hand, or more', but we grinned and enjoyed it and are still here to tell the tale.

When we arrived everything looked so tatty and seedy, dirty even, but we have got our eye in now and it all looks OK. Sitting on our verandah in the hot afternoon we wonder if all the pictures of the Raj are also sanitized, and maybe everything was seedy then - and without electricity! The fans make a huge difference, until the generator packs up, which is often.

When we got back from visiting there was a great hue and cry outside. The boys had seen a snake - it slithered over someone's foot - and the girls were all dashing off to see it, but not too close! If you know me well you will know that the two things I am most scared of in the universe are dentists and snakes, so I stayed put while Dave went to look. He came back and said, 'It's only a little cobra...' !!!!!! The watchman ( known by us as Groundkeeper Willie - Simpsons fans will understand-) had caught it with a long stick and killed it. I was persuaded to go and see. It was a bit sad really, but I prefer my snakes dead, I'm afraid.

Otherwise, all fine. Could get used to three meals a day prepared for us. Lunch and dinner are on the table when ready, whether we're here or not. There is a large insulated dish for the main item, and it's lovely lifting the lid in anticipation. Simple but delicious food, and smells wonderful with the herbs and spices. Still haven't identified the leaves that look like privet, but they are in everything.

Managed to access the web last night and put quite a bit of blog and some pictures up, but the power went and crashed most of it. Will try again tonight if possible.

2010-01-16T08:32:00.000-08:00

Today is Pongal ! We have just witnessed the ceremony of boiling over a pot of rice heated over sugar cane leaves. We awoke to welcome and Pongal patterns chalked on our doorstep and in the sand, very intricate and beautiful. Pongal is the Tamil harvest - treat in store for Llanfaelog come October! I have jasmine in my hair - don't know where we'll find that in October!
The children have just gone for breakfast - peace for a few minutes! - then they will collect us for a day of celebrations - races, singing etc. - all accompanied by loud Caribean-sounding music. Gather this goes on all day and into the night. More later...

Later....

Just negotiated our first social engagement, John (Warden), Johnson(sub-warden) and Mr Kumar, the (?) Chairman of the Indian Trustees, arrived and took us to put a garland on Dr. Lesley's grave. This is a tile monument in an enclosure like a marquee with blue flowers growing around and up it. The ceremony consisted of taking off shoes, washing feet in flowing hosepipe water, then pouring water over the monument. The Chairman said a prayer in Tamil, then we stood there a bit awkwardly before retrieving shoes and coming back to guesthouse. Yet more food awaited. Idlhi (rice cakes) and a very hot chilli and garlic sauce, then a sweet thing of rice, fruit and ginger. So much food! Hope it isn't lunch time for ages! We ate with 'implements' and made more mess than the men who ate with fingers. More slghtly awkward conversation and silences, but fine, we think. Now we will go off to observe sports etc.

2010-01-16T08:17:00.000-08:00

Arrival in Trivandrum.... We were upgraded for the flight from Dhubai - don't know why, theory is that Dave was wearing a jacket, albeit a crumpled linen one. Trouble was, we couldn't keep the posh cutlery as planned with the plastic in steerage, as Tamil Nadu people eat with fingers so we need to carry 'implements'. See, everything has a drawback!! However, the charming service from the dishy young steward, and the champagne and real crockery were appreciated. Arrived in Trivandrum @ 4am, temp. 26C. There had been a delay while some luggage was removed as the passengers didn't turn up and we had joked perhaps it was ours after the upgrade. Began to worry it wasn't a joke as luggage and huge parcels appeared b y the thousand, but not our stuff. It did appear eventually and we emerged into seething humanity crowded round the barrier. Someone spotted us and the three who had driven through the night welcomed us. So began the nightmare ride (2-3 hours) to Chinnamalpuram. Dave was scared too - very! However, we made it and were greeted rapturously by children. Eventually we crashed about 8.30am to be awoken @ 9 for breakfast. Mingled a bit, then crashed, then unpacked - well, sort of. The champagne flight begins to look very silly from here!

it is extremely hot here and quite humid but today there is a breeze. Everything looked sparse and tatty when we arrived but we are soon gettting our eye in, and it all looks OK now.

Christy who cooks for us can't understand our desire for tea brewed with water not milk (and the milk is very strange) so she makes it very strong with buckets of sugar. She is lovely and gives us far too much food. Hospitality is big here and so generous. Hard to accept when they have so little themselves.

Tuesday 9pm

2010-01-12T08:47:00.000-08:00

About to board for Trivandrum. Dubai is fabulous - seen all the famous sights -pictures later. 24C in day -summer often @ 58C! Picture of very posh store that amused us + us crossing the Creek on an 'abra' for 20p. Off to India now.... Quick PS - just been upgraded to business class!!!!!!

Monday, Dubai

2010-01-11T07:33:00.000-08:00

Not the easiest afternoon! Had adventure finding Post Office, had lunch somewhere, then walked legs off. Got taxi - driver didn't know where hotel was, and after discussion and suggestions from us finally found the road - then charged us three times the price! O British cabby with 'The Knowledge' - where are you? Found new Metro, but 'our' bit wasn't finished....ah well!! Then - disaster - realised camera lost! All those wonderful (honestly!) pictures.. So, will attempt to upload some of Dave's, but not quite what I planned. Will borrow his camera and try to retake some tomorrow.

Weather hot and sunny after big storm last night. Marvellous meal last night at train-style restaurant Royal Express. Took photos......

2010-01-10T23:25:00.005-08:00

Dubai, Monday. Amazing place - staying near creek- arrived to gentle 20C at 1am. Big storm last night. Now hot and sunny, so going out! Having some problems connecting - will persevere and post pictures up later.

2010-01-08T02:06:00.000-08:00

Day One - fly tomorrow 1.30pm assuming airport stays open! Early check-in, so staying over in Manchester. Can't believe we're leaving in snow (garden picture) and it's hard to pack for warm weather with this outside! So here we go!

2010-01-03T07:08:00.000-08:00

Sunday before departure, Epiphany. Odd to think I won't see most people until almost Easter, but getting exciting now too. Thank you for all your good wishes and support - I hope you will enjoy following our journey over the next few weeks.

2009-11-23T10:39:00.000-08:00

Hello this is to be my travelogue of my adventures in India